56 engine setup

[Jafo20]

I bought this project with a existing drivetrain. It seems the motor mounts are longer on one side. Anyone know why it's this way? Seems the motor is more to the passenger side of the frame.
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[_Ogre]

your motor has 2 sets of front/side motor mounts, neither are stock
the front set uses some of the stock v8 mounts but not in proper location
on original v8 motor mounts there would have been a bracket riveted to the x-member a 2'' behind where your are mounted
v8 motors of the era did not have the mid-motor boss cast in the block for side mount motor mounts
i couldn't find a stock v8 motor mount picture to post up, maybe someone else has one

55-59 trucks were the first trucks set up for v8 from the factory the motor would have been centered on the x-member
your motor may have been off center to allow for clearance of the steering box with existing manifolds
thou i don't see any steering box

i'll assume that it has never run as is, the motor is too far forward to mount a balancer/pulley
the front mounts only work if you use the stock bellhousing mount
if you change to mid engine mount with the rear trans mount it will work for better for a variety of reasons
unusual pine needle air filter setup

[Jafo20]

Thanks... it was in pieces when I got it. Guy said it’s been sitting forever. It came with a camaro steering column. No steering box. I’ll include more pics and maybe you can help me figure out what’s up with this drivetrain. Thanks

[Jafo20]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

your motor has 2 sets of front/side motor mounts, neither are stock
the front set uses some of the stock v8 mounts but not in proper location
on original v8 motor mounts there would have been a bracket riveted to the x-member a 2'' behind where your are mounted
v8 motors of the era did not have the mid-motor boss cast in the block for side mount motor mounts
i couldn't find a stock v8 motor mount picture to post up, maybe someone else has one

55-59 trucks were the first trucks set up for v8 from the factory the motor would have been centered on the x-member
your motor may have been off center to allow for clearance of the steering box with existing manifolds
thou i don't see any steering box

i'll assume that it has never run as is, the motor is too far forward to mount a balancer/pulley
the front mounts only work if you use the stock bellhousing mount
if you change to mid engine mount with the rear trans mount it will work for better for a variety of reasons
unusual pine needle air filter setup

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[Jafo20]

More pics
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[dsraven]

do you have a plan for what you want the truck to look like and ride like when you are done?
the best thing you can do is start with a plan and stick to it. be realistic about what you have to start with. go through from the front to the rear and find out how solid the cab is. do you have the rest of the body parts?
these old trucks had an issue with debris plugging the side cowl vent drains so the water would build up and run out onto the floor through the kick panel side vents. this causes the floor to rot out as well as the side cowls, hinge pillars, front lower rear fender mounts, steps and front cab mounts. they also have an issue with rust around the eyebrow above the windshield and around the roof drip rail and, of course, the lower rear cab corners. start by checking out these spots to look for soft spots or missing sheet metal. you already have a SBC to use for mock up but if you want a fuel injected system an LS engine could be had if you buy a wreck, complete, so you get the engine, trans, computer, seats, etc etc. scrap some of the wreck parts to support you habit if possible.
if you check the suppliers you will see there are lots of replacement panels readily available. they don't make replacement stuff for nothing so by checking the parts places web sites you will quickly see where most of the issues are with this body style.
post up some more pics when you find time. try to include a few interior pics and possibly some pics of the rest of your parts pile. guys on here will love to help you choose a direction and give hints and encouragement along the way. there are lots of builds on here if you can't decide on a "look" for your new aquisition. if you decide on a power plant and a transmission choice you will get lots of advice on what works and what not to try.
good luck and welcome.

[Jafo20]

Thanks..... I wanna make it a simple Hot Rod type truck. Keep it as simple as possible. I have a 327 in the garage I can use. I also have a M21 but probably go auto. Simple is the plan on this truck. I’m gonna pull the body tomorrow and I’ll inspect the rust issues. I appreciate any advise on this project. Thanks

[dsraven]

if you have an engine lift there is a quick tool you can fab from 2x6 wood and some screws to lift the cab off safely by yourself. no back injuries for anybody and not much chance of dropping it and wrecking something. the way I built mine would make it hard to place the cab directly onto the floor but you get the idea from the pic. don't forget to put the stoppers on each side of the cab so it can't slide off. the doors wouldn't need to come off, maybe, but it makes it easier. they would likely come off anyway if you just had 4 buddies come to help muscle it off. the lift sure is handy during the rebuild. I have used mine lots. mine is a frame swap now though so more goofing around than normal.
hope it helps.

[dsraven]

here are a few shots of some bad rust areas to check for. thr outside didn't look bad. the backside was a different story at times

[dsraven]

here are a couple more of those spots from a different angle

[dsraven]

you can see in the first shot of my last post that I took the inner panel the hinge pillar so I could look down inside that cavity. not a bad idea so you can see what is hiding back there.

[Jafo20]

Based on the pics.... do you think this drivetrain setup will work? Or do I need to add new motor mounts and reconfigure it?

[dsraven]

when you get the cab off you also need to check the frame for straight and square.

1)-get it sitting on a flat surface, like the garage floor, so it is sitting fairly level. no flat tires etc. the best would be to have it sitting on stands and level.
measure from the front left corner of the frame to the right rear. do the same for the other diagonal measurement. compare the two. 1/8" out is acceptable. if you have a buddy helping ensure the tape is held the same way on each measurement to ensure accuracy.

2)-measure from side to side at each cross member and place a mark at the mid point of each one. a piece of masking tape works well if the frame is clean enough. so when done each cross member will have a mark showing the midline between the frame rails. now take a stringline, or a laser if you have one, and go from the midpoint mark of the rear to the midpoint mark of the front cross member. all those midpoint marks along the way in between should line up along the string. if they don't then it indicates a bend in the frame from side to side.
3)-run the string along the top of the frame edge (so you can go next to the bump up for the rear axle) and check for frame sag. another way is to use a block of wood, or similar, at each end to space the string off the frame enough to go over top of the frame bump. then use a third block as a check between the string and the frame at different spaces along the frame.

attached are a couple of pages from the assembly manual that show GM's methods and a full frame with dimensions for different items.

when you get things sorted out post up a few pics. we'd all be interested to see what you have to work with.
by simple build, do you mean keep the solid axle under the front? install the sbc and auto trans but stay pretty much stock otherwise?
just curious because you say you are missing the steering box. to find a good used unit that isn't worn out may be difficult. the steering column is all part of the steering box right up to the steering wheel. if you wanted to go with power steering then you would need to change out the box and column anyway so you might be better off to go that route right away. that is what I meant when I said you should start with a plan and sorta stick with it because those little rabbit trails we go down get spendy. we do one thing then to do another different thing and we have to redo something else we have already spent cash on.
start with a plan, ask questions about the feasability of your plan before you pull the trigger. lots of good advice on this forum. many guys have done your exact plan before and are willing to give insight about what works and what may possibly be a better route to get the same outcome.

[dsraven]

I would say to pick a set that centers the engine in the frame, as low and far back as you can, (bearing in mind that you need to be able to access the distributor), to keep the weight working for you. the side mounts may make it challenging to find a set of headers or exhaust manifolds that will fit around the steering box (if going stock) and the side mount engine mounts.
you could probably modify what you have there for mounts. just pick one set, either front or side mounts. you will want to worry about that after you have a steering and suspension decided on for the front.
some of the choice will depend on what your choices for steering will be. if going with a stock manual steering box you need to have room on the driver's side for the box to fit on the inside of the frame. that could be why the engine is offset now, to allow clearance. if you plan to go with a mustangII or some other form of independent front suspension then you could have more room to work with in that area but need to consider room for the steering column shaft to go from the firewall through to the rack and pinion, which is usually in front of that new cross member that comes with the independent front suspension (IFS). if you plan to lower the truck then you also need to consider how the front tire looks in the wheel opening. because the wheel opening is tapered at the rear it can make the tire look like it is too far back in the opening when the truck is lowered. most guys move the axle ahead some to compensate for that.
cpp makes a power steering box swap kit that puts the box in the stock location. if you plan on using the stock solid axle this may be something to look at since you will be buying something anyway. some other box swaps will give you less turning radius because the tire hits the box (the later chevy truck box conversion), or they will give you bump steer (the truck turns by itself when going over a bump due to steering geometry) which is not what you want at highway (or any other) speeds. some of these swaps will also require a custom drag link (thats the part that goes from the steering box pitman arm to the steering knuckle).
first decide what your plan is and then do some pricing of parts required. sometimes that is what changes out minds on the direction the build takes.

upgrade to power steering-or-
source a good used stock steering box
rebuild stock box or buy a rebuilt stock steering box

replace the old front steering with IFS. this will require a steering column retrofit or some work on the stock column-or-
rebuild king pins
replace tie rod ends and drag link

replace the steering column with a newer style for automatic trans shifter,
key, signals etc (may need some custom work at the bottom to connect to the stock steering box-if using the stock box scenario) -or-
source a stock steering wheel and turn signal unit
source some sort of shifter for the trans choice you go with, floor or column. column will be tough if staying with the stock column. not too many auto trans trucks of this vintage

rebuild the stock drum brakes including shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware kits, hoses etc -or-
upgrade to disc brakes on the front (it's a kit but several choices) and install power brake unit at same time to get away from the single circuit brake system (it's a kit also. dual diaphragm style, fits on frame in stock location so stock pedals can be used)

just a few thoughts
best to peruse the parts sites and see whats out there, get prices on what you like, then decide what direction you wanna go. some choices, as mentioned above, will have a bearing on other things. just put a plan together and ask questions. it can depend on what you plan to do with the truck. a daily driver with a solid axle and standard steering and brakes would not be my choice because it would be a pain to park anywhere and a pain to stop quickly in the city (where everybody seems to stop fast in front of you). also, a truck with a lot of "go" should have the same or more "stop" capabilities. rebuilding the stock solid axle and springs and spring pins etc could be as much as a new IFS kit but then there is also work to putting in that kit. some do bolt in so a welder wouldn't be required. but then that IFS kit also changes the steering column scenario and the brake master cylinder scenario (which should be addressed anyway because the stock brake system is a single system). most would be power steering (but that's an option).
anyway, lots to think about.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Jafo20

Based on the pics.... do you think this drivetrain setup will work? Or do I need to add new motor mounts and reconfigure it?

1st: get the steering box straightened out, stock or aftermarket. probably lots of stock ones floating around this forum for cheap
2nd: scrap the front motor mounts and go with side mounts if you want to use an automatic
you may be able to salvage the side mounts, i'd center the motor and see if they can be saved
side mounts are easy to fabricate with some 68 truck mounts, a short piece of 3/8'' tube and some 10 gauge flat stock
\

[dsraven]

check this thread, post 9, for a side view of what ogre is talking about. you can see the interference that may come about if using the stock steering box.it would go on the inside of frame about where the blue wire is hanging there. you can also see what I meant about the steering column shaft and clearances for exhaust manifolds or headers. this unit is using a mustangII front suspension kit by the looks of it.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=758604

[dsraven]

here is another spot to check for rust. mine was really bad but then the whole cab was pretty rusty. I wasn't too worried because I was replacing the whole floor anyway. this is a shot of the rear cab mounts from inside the cab. they are under the fuel tank(which you should seriously think about moving out of the cab)

[Jafo20]

Thanks .... I’ll have the body off tonight and get the frame looked at and post pics. I’m finding some interesting bodywork on the cab. 😬

[dsraven]

ya, pretty common. these trucks have been round the block. some el cheapo deluxe bodywork over the years just to keep them on the road economically. lots of back yard "dunno what I'm doin but gonna try" stuff. I have even seen concrete behind the headlight eyebrow on a 4 eyed truck, haha. it worked! no rust there either (just all around it)
can't wait to see some pics. careful not to cut yourself on a raw edge.