Cab mounts question

[Strapt]

Got a cab mount kit to replace the original mounts. I see where the front mount bolts are under the carpet. My question is about the rear cab mount bolts/nuts. Do you have to remove the fuel tank to access them?
Thanks in advance.

[shp4man]

Originally Posted by Strapt

Got a cab mount kit to replace the original mounts. I see where the front mount bolts are under the carpet. My question is about the rear cab mount bolts/nuts. Do you have to remove the fuel tank to access them?
Thanks in advance.

They're caged nuts on my 65. So no worries.

[Captainfab]

No you do not. The caged nuts are forward of the gas tank. The bolts come up from underneath.

Originally Posted by Strapt

Got a cab mount kit to replace the original mounts. I see where the front mount bolts are under the carpet. My question is about the rear cab mount bolts/nuts. Do you have to remove the fuel tank to access them?
Thanks in advance.

[Strapt]

Thanks guys. The new cab mount kit came with 4 bolts and 4 nylon insert nuts so wasn't sure if I needed to use them. I'll use the nylon insert nuts on the front and the caged nuts on the rear so I don't have to remove the gas tank.
Thanks!

[rvrfoot]

I just did the same thing. The bolts that come in the kit will not fit the nuts on your truck.

[Strapt]

Originally Posted by rvrfoot

I just did the same thing. The bolts that come in the kit will not fit the nuts on your truck.

So did you have to remove the gas tank and remove the cage nuts?
Posted via Mobile Device

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Strapt

So did you have to remove the gas tank and remove the cage nuts?
Posted via Mobile Device

I bought the correct size grade 8 hex head machine screws. But thats just me.

[shp4man]

What mount kit did you guys use? I think mine was one of those polyurethane ones.

[LostMy65]

Make sure you guys give a bad customer rating for the kits that didn't have the correct bolts included.

[rvrfoot]

From car truck shop. part #60-09601

[raylube]

Just changed mine. Energy suspension Poly mounts. The rear bolts are bigger due to the size of bushings sleeve. Don't use the smaller bolt just remove cage nut with air hammer or long chisel etc. No need to remove tank. Use wrench to hold nut and zip tight with impact

[LostMy65]

This just came up again for me.

The rear cab mount bolts are a smaller diameter on my 65 than what comes in the kit.

[Braunschweiger]

Double

[Braunschweiger]

I did it on my '62 the same way Raylube described it.
The front bolts, from the kit, were a good 3/4" too short.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

This just came up again for me.

The rear cab mount bolts are a smaller diameter on my 65 than what comes in the kit.

I had the same issue with the cab mounts for my 63. I ended up using the new mounts with the original bolts since they weren't rusted through. Not ideal because the old bolts are not a tight fit in the new cab mount components, but I don't believe the cab has moved on me at all since doing that 2 years ago.
I didn't want to cut out the cage nuts that the original bolts thread into.
Maybe you could find an additional metal sleeve that takes up the slack between the original bolts and new mounts?

[LostMy65]

Yes, a sleeve in the sleeve would be an option.
I did as you and used bolts that fit in the existing cage nuts.
For me, the front mounts are so tight that I can't see the cab ever sliding.

[66 Stepside C X]

Hello everyone not to hijack this thread but I’m about to undertake this project this weekend… until I went to locate the front cab bolts inside the cab and it looks like a previous owner welded panels over the original floor.. if anyone can possibly give me some ideas without me creating a million holes to get to this bolt all help is appreciated.. I was thinking maybe I can jack the cab high enough we’re I can still remove the washers. Attached is an image from another forum member but similar situation. Thank you to everyone in advance. Maybe a possible exact measurement from a constant x and y location.

[LostMy65]

Couldn't you just drill up from the bottom?

[66 Stepside C X]

Yes that would be an option my concern would be losing the bolt inside that panel and then it’s rolling around forever driving me crazy, since I’ll need to completely remove it in order to drill the hole

[Braunschweiger]

He can't actually do that, if it's the original carrier then there is a tubular sleeve there, the bolt goes through there.
Can you see it on the Pictures?

[LostMy65]

I'm kinda wondering if the top of the bolt isn't just down in the channel of the cab support brace. I mean, if they didn't bolt it to the top of the floor panel, what did they use as a solid surface for the top connection other than the bottom of the support channel?
Interested to see how this plays out.

[66 Stepside C X]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I'm kinda wondering if the top of the bolt isn't just down in the channel of the cab support brace. I mean, if they didn't bolt it to the top of the floor panel, what did they use as a solid surface for the top connection other than the bottom of the support channel?
Interested to see how this plays out.

My guess the original panel is still underneath probably had rust issues and the welded over the original. So it’s tucked away in a little panel trap lol

[LostMy65]

I wonder if you could find the outline of the top washer if you tapped gently with a wooden mallet.

[66 Stepside C X]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I wonder if you could find the outline of the top washer if you tapped gently with a wooden mallet.

It’s a little difficult to tell what the depth is of the panel.. I was even thinking about hammering the bolt from the bottom
To see if creates a mark on top but I’m afraid of hitting it too hard and popping the weld tacks off

[66 Stepside C X]

Update…
I ended up trying to measure out the location of the bolt from
The bottom, but with the interference of the frame side mount.
I would have been drilling 4-5 inches away from the location of the bolt if I drilled
From the bottom. I was about 1” away drilling from
The top. I drilled 8 holes around the bolt to have access with a socket just incase.
I measured the location to do the driver side and I was able to get it directly dead on center of the bolt. Will post pictures tomorrow. Still soaking all the bolts for loosening.