OEM heater

[Erics51chevy]

I am using the original heater and am worried about the two 5/8 water connections going to it. They seem like thin metal tubing without a dimple around the edge like a normal water connection. I have an LS under the hood and have already had a coupler blow off and shoot hot water everywhere. The last thing i would want to do is burn my passenger.

Was the water pump psi less in a 235 then the ls motors?

Im thinking epoxy might be in order so i dont crush the tubing with a hose clamp.

[1project2many]

Radiator cap psi was typically 6-7 psi in the late '50s and could have been lower for an early truck. You can use Permatex #1 to bond the hoses to the heater core fittings. Mild clamp pressure is required.

What pressure cap are you using now?

[mr48chev]

That's the main problem you are running 15 lbs of pressure rather than 4 or under. No way to get around that or even want to but you could probably have a radiator shop put the dimples on the end of the tubes. That would mean pulling the heater out so I' talk to the guys at what ever radiator shop you go to first. Worse case they might be able to solder new ends on the tubes.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That's the main problem you are running 15 lbs of pressure rather than 4 or under. No way to get around that or even want to but you could probably have a radiator shop put the dimples on the end of the tubes. That would mean pulling the heater out so I' talk to the guys at what ever radiator shop you go to first. Worse case they might be able to solder new ends on the tubes.

That's what I was thinking, extend the tubes off the core so they go out into the engine compartment. And of course use tubes with the raised area at the end so the hose is properly on there.

Brian

[Erics51chevy]

Thats a great idea to solder new ends on outside of the passenger compartment.

[1project2many]

I've made those ends before using a bolt, washer, two nuts, and a block of wood with a V. Hit the bolt at the point indicated by the red "X" in the picture.

[Erics51chevy]

I dont remember if its steel or copper. Pretty sure its steel.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Erics51chevy

I dont remember if its steel or copper. Pretty sure its steel.

The heater core and the tubes are brass.

Brian

[Erics51chevy]

Thats great. Ill solder 1/2 inch copper tubing out into the engine compartment and instead of putting a dimple around the pipe ill do like i did on my other copper coupling and run a solder bead around the outside of the pipe.

[Erics51chevy]

Going to expand the 1/2 inch to fit around the brass tubing and use soft copper.

[Erics51chevy]

A 1/2 copper coupling fit over the tube perfectly. Then soldered peices of copper a couple inches into the engine compartment. Going to slide the rubber hose a couple inches through the firewall to make it look cleaner.

[1project2many]

Nice. Pics?

[Erics51chevy]

I can add some tomorrow. Going to put a 15psi pressure test on it to make sure it doesnt leak internally. Before i make a mess of coolant everywhere.

[Erics51chevy]

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[1project2many]

Nice. That's one way to do it, and it's a built-not-bought solution to boot.

[Erics51chevy]

For free haha. Im a plumber. Have a bunch of fittings laying around. Cant beat it.