New guy - Picked up a '53 3100 Project

[hobo]

Hey all. I'm a member of many forums, but new here. Have wrenched on Harleys for almost 30 years as a hobby and have done a few muscle cars and even a couple old airplanes. This will be my first AD truck, and I'm looking forward to it.

1953 on an S-10 frame with Mustang II front suspension. I verified that the top is chopped 4" but was also told that the bed was stretched 7" (I see some weld marks that kinda confirm that as well). I'm learning what the past owners have done over time. Some good, some crappy. Looking forward to learning with the crew here.

Yanked the "newly build and never fired" 350 to see what I had, and found a bad spot on the crank where someone had drove the connecting rod bolts into it. So...glad I verified the build, but hate that I have to build something else for her now. Oh well, that's part of our hobby.

[mongocanfly]

welcome.....
looks like a good project ....
curious that they put a m2 on the s10....thats usually one of the reasons for the s10 swap..is for not having to do the front suspension...
which makes me wonder if they put it on a swb frame which led to shortening the bed....
but your bed has been shortened..btw..not stretched...
bed should look like this.......

[hobo]

Who knows WHAT has been done to this old girl over the years Mongo. I DO know that it appears that I have more bed behind the fender than your pic does. I don't have a good pic, but here's one as an example...

Your idea of dropping the truck on a swb s10 frame makes sense though since the front of my bed certainly looks shorter. Maybe they shortened the front and lengthened the rear. :-)

[mongocanfly]

or just moved the fender forward
pull a measure on the bedside...that'll tell....

[MARTINSR]

I don't believe it's chopped 4" I am thinking more like 3.

If you want to find out for sure measure how tall the door window opening is and post it here and one of us will tell you the exact amount.

Brian

[Fred n' Ethel]

Some original dimensions for reference.

[MiraclePieCo]

And that's not a Mustang II front suspension - it's Chevy.

But it looks like a great start with all the right parts. I especially like those headers that go around the steering shaft.

[hobo]

Originally Posted by Fred n' Ethel

Some original dimensions for reference.

Thank you - that helps a lot!

[hobo]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

And that's not a Mustang II front suspension - it's Chevy.

But it looks like a great start with all the right parts. I especially like those headers that go around the steering shaft.

What Mongo said above made me wonder and I was just researching that, so thank you! I bought the project from someone who bought it from someone else, who bought it from someone else. So, I'm taking everything I was told with a grain of salt. I've only ever had a few muscle cars in my days (68 Camaro, 69 Chevelle, 69 Nova). I'm more of an engine guy and never dealt with a Mustang II suspension in the past to I appreciate the clarification.

[hobo]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

or just moved the fender forward
pull a measure on the bedside...that'll tell....

Measurement from the top/front of the bed to the top/rear of the tailgate is just short of 75"...

[mongocanfly]

on mine the bedrail end 2 end measures 79 11/16.....

[hobo]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

on mine the bedrail end 2 end measures 79 11/16.....

You were correct that mine has been shortened then. Interesting that I measure about a 7" long patch down both sides of the bed. Again, who knows WHAT has been done to this old girl over the years.

Should be a fun project...

[MARTINSR]

You're teasing me, so how much is it chopped?

Brian

[hobo]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

You're teasing me, so how much is it chopped?

Brian

Driver's and passenger window measures 12" top-to-bottom Brian. I need to look up what the stock height is. The A-Pillars each have about a 4" space between two weld lines, but who knows what went on.

I'll post a measured window pic later...

[dsraven]

a arms, assume control arms, may be widened because the s10 is a bit narrow. some use wheel spacers, some use off set wheels, some weld a piece into the control arm that keeps you upright and alive while driving. not really an idea that would pass a safety inspection. in Canada, where I am from, I would lose my mechanics lic and possibly be making lic plates for awhile if I did that. not allowed to modify a steering part. can swap with another manufactured part but heating, cutting, welding is not allowed. think what happens if it seperates while doing 70 mph down the feeway.
lots of aftermarket stuff available, just find out what front end you have there. is it an s10 frame or a clipped frame? pics would help us check it out for you.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by hobo

Driver's and passenger window measures 12" top-to-bottom Brian. I need to look up what the stock height is. The A-arms each have about a 4" space between two weld lines, but who knows what went on.

I'll post a measured window pic later...

Then your truck is only chopped 2.5 inches. It actually looks very good, most are over done in my opinion. Mine is chopped 3.5 inches and I am wondering now if I should have went less after seeing yours.

Brian

[hobo]

Originally Posted by dsraven

a arms, assume control arms, may be widened because the s10 is a bit narrow. some use wheel spacers, some use off set wheels, some weld a piece into the control arm that keeps you upright and alive while driving. not really an idea that would pass a safety inspection. in Canada, where I am from, I would lose my mechanics lic and possibly be making lic plates for awhile if I did that. not allowed to modify a steering part. can swap with another manufactured part but heating, cutting, welding is not allowed. think what happens if it seperates while doing 70 mph down the feeway.
lots of aftermarket stuff available, just find out what front end you have there. is it an s10 frame or a clipped frame? pics would help us check it out for you.

I'm sorry, I meant "A-Pillars". I was trying to respond quickly between meetings and typed the wrong thing. I'll correct the other post...

Thanks for catching that!

[hobo]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Then your truck is only chopped 2.5 inches. It actually looks very good, most are over done in my opinion. Mine is chopped 3.5 inches and I am wondering now if I should have went less after seeing yours.

Brian

Thanks Brian, I'll especially take that compliment coming from a body guy. This old girl has sat for years but I'm hoping to bring her back to life. I have to say, welding the holes in the sheet metal is testing my skills. Even with 25 wire and lower heat/speed I'm blowing through, but I'll keep practicing.

The engine in her was a newly-rebuilt and never fired 350. I tore her down to see what the previous owner(s) had built and found a bad spot on the crank. Having the block checked and will be building a 383 for her, so that S-10 7.5 rear end is gonna have to go soon. :-)

[dsraven]

grab a piece of copper pipe, flatten it, use it as a backer to fill the holes. the weld won't fall through then. big holes need a plug of metal to weld in. grab some hole cut outs of a size bigger than your biggest hole. drill the holes (with a step drill so they are round) to the size required for the plugs, then all the holes can be easily plugged. try welders series for some unholes (plugs) and lots of other hotrod requirements. they are Canadian so the USD goes a long way. lots of interesting stuff on their website too. some plugs from electrical boxes will work as well but they are galanizes so you takle more time grinding that off than it is worth.
to keep the copper in place I have a C clamp with the bottom of the C cut off, then a magnet attached there. you can stick the magnet to the project, then bear down on the copper backer with the screw part of the c clamp. works pretty good especially if the c clamp is a wide one so the magnet part is further away from the weld, to stop the spatter induced by the magnetism.

[hobo]

Originally Posted by dsraven

grab a piece of copper pipe, flatten it, use it as a backer to fill the holes. the weld won't fall through then. big holes need a plug of metal to weld in. grab some hole cut outs of a size bigger than your biggest hole. drill the holes (with a step drill so they are round) to the size required for the plugs, then all the holes can be easily plugged. try welders series for some unholes (plugs) and lots of other hotrod requirements. they are Canadian so the USD goes a long way. lots of interesting stuff on their website too. some plugs from electrical boxes will work as well but they are galanizes so you takle more time grinding that off than it is worth.
to keep the copper in place I have a C clamp with the bottom of the C cut off, then a magnet attached there. you can stick the magnet to the project, then bear down on the copper backer with the screw part of the c clamp. works pretty good especially if the c clamp is a wide one so the magnet part is further away from the weld, to stop the spatter induced by the magnetism.

Thanks! I've read about the copper backing, so I'll give it a shot...

[mongocanfly]

the copper does work great....but heat travels fast in copper so be prepared.....