Bleeding brakes with wilwood prop valve?

[paintman]

Gentlemen, curious to know if anyone here has bled there system while having a wilwood multi port proportioning valve installed. When doing the intial bleed did you have the valve fully openend. Logic tells me to have it full open, but would it be best closing it when doing the backs thus eliminating any fluid movement to the front discs?

This is the valve in question
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...SABEgKPi_D_BwE

[MiraclePieCo]

I left it open for the entire bleeding procedure, then set the adjustment. Don't know if that's the recommended method but the truck's brakes worked great.

[lolife99]

Google is your friend,....
http://www.wilwood.com/pdf/datasheets/ds715.pdf

Quote:
Bleeding:
To properly bleed the brake system, begin with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
For fixed mount calipers with two bleed screws on top,
bleed the outboard bleed screw first, then bleed the inboard screw.
Repeat this procedure until all calipers have been bled, ending with the caliper closest to the master cylinder.
Once the system has been bled, the pedal should maintain a consistent, firm feel.
If the pedal returns to a spongy feel after it has rested from the bleeding process, this is an indication that air still exists in the system.
If this occurs, repeat the bleeding process until all air has been purged and the
pedal retains a firm feel. NOTE: When installing a new master cylinder, it is important to follow proper bench bleeding procedures. Follow the installation
instructions provided with the new master cylinder.
If a firm pedal can not be achieved after bleeding the system, the master cylinder may not be properly sized
for the brake system.

Proportioning Valve Adjustment:
The proportioning valve is used to adjust the rate of increase in rear brake line pressure, relative and proportionate to the
increase in front brake line pressure.
For safety and performance, the rear brakes should never lock before the front brakes.
Otherwise, an out of control situation
could occur.
1. Begin with the valve in the full proportioned (least pressure) position by turning the knob all the way out (counter-clockwise rotation).
2. In a safe location, make several hard stops from 30 MPH observing the function of the rear brakes.
If the rear brakes do not lock up before the front, gradually increase the rear line pressure by rotating the valve clockwise (two turns each time).
3. Continue these adjustments until the maximum amount of rear brake pressure can be achieved, and no wheel rear lock is observed.
4. Test the vehicle again at 50 MPH and make any additional adjustments as needed.

[paintman]

I have seen that instruction sheet, but it does not address my original question. It does not say anything about wether their prop valve should be fully opened or not to bleed the brakes.

[MIKESAD50]

I used the same valve and bled brakes the same as you would normally do it. I didnt adjust the valve until test drive to adjust front rear bias.

like suggested start with R/R, L/R, R/F then L/F

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by MIKESAD50

I used the same valve and bled brakes the same as you would normally do it. I didnt adjust the valve until test drive to adjust front rear bias.

like suggested start with R/R, L/R, R/F then L/F

Same here. No problems or issues.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by paintman

I have seen that instruction sheet, but it does not address my original question. It does not say anything about wether their prop valve should be fully opened or not to bleed the brakes.

Full counter clockwise is what I got out of those instructions.
(Least pressure)

[mr48chev]

That is what I am reading into it, bleed the brakes with it wide open and then go out where you have lots of room (big open parking lot) and do your test braking and adjusting. You never want the rear brakes to lock up on a pickup or you will be going round and round. My 71 GMC is a prime example of that, the rear brakes lock up and the rear end comes around in a hard stop.