55.2-59 55-59 camaro clip frame

[jeffs56]

Hey guys I’ve posted before about getting some info on my 56 Chevy truck frame with the camaro clip welded on it. For some reason it sits extremely high. No motor or tranny in it. But still sits way too high even for that I think. I have the front fenders just sitting on the frame. Can you guys tell by the pictures if that’s normal height or if dropped spindles or springs fix that problem or if it’s just not worth using. Thank you

[jeffs56]

More pics

[jeffs56]

Sorry it’s only letting me post 1 pic at a time

[jeffs56]

More pics. Hopefully you guys can help from that. Thank you

[MD2020]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

More pics

Attached Images


1975 Nova sub frame welded on JUST LIKE YOURS, I think the people I got it from cut a coil off the springs to get it lower.
I think you will be ok, put about 600 lb. on there and see.

[Indian113]

It will drop some with the added weight of all the sheet metal and motor and trans. I wouldn't worry to much until after that then you could change to 6 cyl springs. To see if that's all you need.

[mr48chev]

Stock height of the bottom center of that crossmember (when it is under the Camaro) to the shop floor is about 6-1/2 inches. Slide under the front and measure how far it is off the shop floor and that will show how much the truck should drop.

[jeffs56]

So would it be 6 1/2 inches in the truck? With motor and tranny. Is that what your saying? Or would the weight of the truck and everything change that? Thank you

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

So would it be 6 1/2 inches in the truck? With motor and tranny. Is that what your saying? Or would the weight of the truck and everything change that? Thank you

Am I seeing your Camaro clip welded underneath your truck frame?? What I believe is being said is that's with the motor, trans, body all mounted, BUT, what size wheels are you planning on running, what sidewall of tire are you planning on using, what size motor/trans are you planning on running. Again, I'd put your truck together with all thats been mentioned before worrying about ride height, you can change that after all that's put back into it.Lastly, you can put on 2" lowering spindles to lower the front end with that Camaro suspension.

[jeffs56]

I will be running old school whitewalls. 15” inch wheels. The wheels that are on that frame are just old junk. 20’ rollers with really low pro tires. Yes the camaro clip is welded underneath. I think that means it should sit lower then when it’s welded into the frame. Is that correct? Just seems odd that it sits as high as it is now. I don’t see sitting the motor and tranny in there dropping it about 15 inches which seems to be about the amount that it needs to lower it. Thank you. I’m running into some issues with my stock frame with dropped axle so I’m seeing if I can get this camaro clip frame going and see which one would be the best way too go. Before I go a certain route and get rid of one. Thanks guys

[MARTINSR]

And this is why when doing a frame clip you put all thread in place of the shocks and tighten it up pulling the suspension down to the normal ride height and then weld it to the frame with the frame at the height you want it, done deal.

Brian

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

So would it be 6 1/2 inches in the truck? With motor and tranny. Is that what your saying? Or would the weight of the truck and everything change that? Thank you

With the whole completed weight of the truck fully assembled ready to drive down the road.

I've done a couple of my own subframe jobs and have been involved in several others and the thing I figured out a long time ago is that if you set the subframe on blocks on the shop floor at the stock ride height it had in the donor rig and have the vehicle you are subframing sitting at the final static ride height you want to have it at you can get that ride height without changing springs or dropped spindles.

It's near impossible to change springs in a chassis that doesn't have the weight of the engine and trans in it to compress the spring when you put it back together. That from the guy who did front end work for a living for a number of years and had springs out all the time. As much experience as I have I won't try that again.

Right now as I said before, don't get in an uproar about it, put it all together, drive it around the block and stand back and look and if it isn't the way you want it then make what ever change you need. from what I see it will be plenty low when you are done .

[dsraven]

if you are really fretting about it the only real way to get the clip at it's intended ride height is to compress the spring until the lower control arms are level, side to side. the way to do this, like martinsr says, is to use threaded rod in place of the shock absorber. ensure you are using threaded rod large enough for the job. if you have a half dozen or so buddies that can come over and sit on the front of the frame you should be able to compress the spring easier. you could also use a couple of spring compressors that slide up inside the spring, where the shock goes, and compress the spring that way. here are a few types of internal coil spring compressors. the otc one is probably the safest one since it uses the lower control arm for the bottom support. the round part could be an issue to get up inside the hole from the shock though. also, once compressed you need to cage the spring somehow and the compressor is in the way for running some threaded rod through the shock hole. the one from amazon is like the style I have used before and the only real problem I had was the fork at the bottom tried to slip out, shouldn't really be a problem for you though because the suspension isn't coming apart, just the spring is compressing. the one from ecklers is a pic of what you could copy and use for your spring compressor/caging tool and then you could simply leave it installed until you get the engine in. from there you really should let it sit for awhile or drive it around a bit so the springs get their "set" with the new weight on them. then, if the truck is too tall still after the body etc is installed, you could think about drop spindles or different springs. you would need 2 of these things though, one for each side. if copying the ecklers tool with home depot threaded rod (is what I would do because it is cheapest way around your issue) use the long nuts that come for that purpose and ensure to lube the threads and use large enough threaded rod for the job. a piece of 1/4" plate underneath would work for a large washer if you simply drill a hole in it for the rod to go through. see how large the top shock mounting hole is and get the biggest threaded rod that will fit through that hole.
the rake angle of the truck is also going to be affected when the front is dropped and since there is no box or weight on the rear it will be amplified. without knowing the weight of the box you will be guessing at the rear ride height. the front clip is made to have the lower control arm pivot shafts level to the ground-front to rear- so you could guestimate by lowering the rear until those shafts are relatively level.
anyway, here are a few examples of the type of spring compressor you would need to go up inside the spring coils where the shock is currently residing.

https://www.amazon.ca/OEM-27035-Coil...0?tag=vig07-20

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/...SOR/p/OTC7045B

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../7045b/4606817

https://munstertoolco.ie/product/08450000/

https://www.eastwood.com/coilspring-...-internal.html

https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-In.../dp/B076F94LVW

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INTERNAL-...-/171332435991

https://www.ecklers.com/camaro/coil-...-253662-1.html

[dsraven]

here is a pic of what you would do if removing the spring. it is also what you will simulate with the home made tool made from threaded rod. if you scroll down through the different pics there is a home made tool with threaded rod and some flat bar with studs/nuts. those would be bolted to the lower shock mounting bolts. the spacer tubing could be used if you knew the dimension required to have the suspension sit at ride height and then that tube would basically bottom out on the upper shock mount when the spring is compressed enough to be at ride height. shown again is one with a tube but that is because there is a nut welded to the end of the tube to make the threaded rod shorter. this is all mustang stuff but the same idea applies to camaro stuff except the spring is up inside a "tube" so there is no access from the outside of the coils.

hope it helps

http://www.imageri.org/mustang-coil-...-install-tool/

[MARTINSR]

I have never done a 55 so I don't know for sure, but the motor and trans is going to drop it at least a few inches. That and different tires that could be a whole different look.

I know one thing, you are screwed if not, so do it, put the motor in and continue. If you want it lower get dropped spindles.
https://www.amazon.com/Belltech-3600...a-592688566297

That's all you can do. Or cut springs of course but that screws with the geometry, stick with dropped spindles.

Brian

[duramax55]

i think that if it goes down 3 to 4 inches in the front it would be close to level. You mentioned it would have to go down 15 in you dont have that much to the ground. what is the distance from under steps to the ground? with motor and trans in it you might be close to level. Put the box on also to see how it looks front to back, just some ideas for you

[jeffs56]

That’s the measurements I have now. I’ll take more from the crossmember to the ground tomorrow. I can’t sit the motor in now. But I’m at the point where I need to decide what frame to use

[jeffs56]

14 inches from just behind the welded in subframe and 13 1/2 inches from the front support to the ground. No motor

[MiraclePieCo]

My truck before and after engine installation. You can see it dropped a good 4-5 inches. Don't sweat the ride height until you load it up. I mean, for God's sake man, look at the angle of your upper A-arms! Those will level out when weighted.