Drop Spindles on 1962 C10

[X1 JJR]

I am about to install some CPP 2.5" drop spindles, the CPP disc brake conversion kit was added by a previous owner so the CP4S1 spindles I have will bolt straight on.

I am comfortable doing the swap but the one question I have is, do I do anything with the torsion bars?. Do I need to back them off or just don’t touch them at all.

Thanks in advance.

[macs61]

Hi i am doing a 2 1/2 inch drop myself , back off your torsion bars all the way to take tension off them. Then tighten back up with wheels back on the ground good luck.

[SkinnyG]

You shouldn't have to do anything with the torsion bars - if the truck is up in the air, the bars will be as un-tensioned as they can be, and the upper arm will move up out of the way to get the spindle off the bottom ball joint.

Fret not, my good man!

[X1 JJR]

Thanks, that’s the answer I was hoping for!
The front of the truck will be in the air when I do the swap.

[bhap]

I'd put a floor jack under the lower A arm before releasing the spindle. I just replaced a spindle on my 62 and there was still a little "torsion" left after jacking the truck and loosening the adjuster.

[X1 JJR]

will do - thanks

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by bhap

I'd put a floor jack under the lower A arm before releasing the spindle. I just replaced a spindle on my 62 and there was still a little "torsion" left after jacking the truck and loosening the adjuster.

This is how I did mine.

[X1 JJR]

All, thanks for the advice. Installed the drop spindles this afternoon - very straight forward. Hopefully get the rear done by the weekend.

[bhap]

Looks good! What size wheels and tires? Any rubbing? Is that just the drop spindles or did you relax the torsion bars when you tightened them? I had to check the garage to make sure my black 62 was still in there..

[X1 JJR]

Thanks, the wheels and tires are 275x60r17.
I haven’t driven it yet so not sure on the rubbing. I want to finish dropping the rear before I drive it, but will let you know then if there are any rubbing issues.
I have only used the drop spindles to lower it, I didn’t touch the torsion bars at all. Are you looking to do the same? I assume your 62 was in your garage...

[X1 JJR]

I have the rear coils in and everything back together (no rubbing issues). The rear passenger side feels rock hard with no give, the rear driver side is a bit better. My first thought is that the shock absorber is bottoming out. I re-used the existing shocks as I was advised that I would only need shorter shocks if I went 4” or lower. Would it be the shocks or something else? Also rear passenger side is sitting about ¾ “ higher than the rear driver side. Would that be as a result of the issue with the shocks?
Finally, the steering feels different. Is that normal? I think it probably needs an alignment. Any recommendations / advice would be appreciated.

[SkinnyG]

The steering will feel slightly different, not always for the better.

For sure spindles will affect the front roll center height, closer to the ground which should be good, but also closer to the center of gravity which should also be good.

To actually fit the tie rods with a relocated wheel, some manufacturers move the steering arm inboard to avoid hitting the wheel. This would make Ackerman worse (toe-out-on-turns), and may result in a larger turning radius. Some manufacturers move the wheel further outboard, which would increase scrub, changing steering effort.

If the back was lowered more than the front, that would increase the Caster angle on the front, making steering a bit stiffer, but should result in a better steering "feel."

The big advantage of spindles is it does not ruin your bumpsteer or camber curve like cutting springs or dropped control arms does.

[X1 JJR]

Thanks, turning bradius feels good, there is slight pulling to the right when driving in a straight line so I will get the allignment done.

I was doing a bit more reseach on the rear and found some info on shock relocation kits, although these only seem to be available for 63-72 models. Would I need those or just drop shocks or both?

[SkinnyG]

That I don't know, but i'm sure someone will chime in.

I've always gone through the Monroe catalog of raw data and found a compressed length that works from a comparably sprung vehicle.

[LVPhotos]

I used 2wd shock mounts with welded nuts. The arms are Poterter built. But you can just move shocks fwd on top for a better angle.

[X1 JJR]

Thanks. I have ordered some drop shocks, so will fit them first and see what the next step will be. I was hoping for a bolt on application rather than welding, but if that’s what I need to do, then I will have someone weld for me. Where did you get those shock mounts?

[LVPhotos]

They are just nuts welded to frame.