B-Pillar

[caseyfromMO]

Fixing to attack my drivers side B-Pillar, can you guys post some pictures of your dealings with this area just so I have a better idea.

I ordered the rocker box reinforcement piece, both B-Pillar patches since it's all rusted.

Any pictures would be helpful! Thanks.

[raggedjim]

Start at post 78 and read forward.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=341224&page=4

Another thread with good pics
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=b-pillar

More good pics
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=b-pillar

Good luck, Rg

[lks dcvn]

get some pix of what you are starting with - many of us can tell you what you are in for by just seeing a few pix of you truck at the b-pillar.

Welcome to the forum!

[caseyfromMO]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

get some pix of what you are starting with - many of us can tell you what you are in for by just seeing a few pix of you truck at the b-pillar.

Welcome to the forum!

I have several of your pictures saved for sure! Ill try to get some pictures in a bit. Thanks.

[lks dcvn]

Take a look at this thread for another blazer -

This post has links to most of the aftermarket parts to rebuild these trucks now.

Over the past 3-5 years - the ability to build one from the ground up is WAY easier.

[caseyfromMO]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

Take a look at this thread for another blazer -

This post has links to most of the aftermarket parts to rebuild these trucks now.

Over the past 3-5 years - the ability to build one from the ground up is WAY easier.

Here are some of my pictures... I got a pretty good idea to go about it from your post and a few others. Lots of great advice here, and on the FB page.

[raggedjim]

Jump on in, misery loves company!

Good luck, Rg

[lks dcvn]

looks like quite a few panels are in rough shape. you are at a cross roads - buy patches to weld in or replace the metal completely. I have now done it both ways.

Before you cut anything -

- bolt on the factory hard top
- check the body mounts/bolts - if they are rusted/gone - replace keeping track of shim count and locatin
- check how the doors open/close - shim until they open and close normally

If you don't do these steps first - you are rolling the dice on the fixes you make (time and money spent) - not being done on a solid platform to start.

On one of my projects - (after doing all the items above first) I replaced the entire back half of the truck to new sheet metal. I measured the door opening at each step and confirmed I was still within spec. It was pricey, but the parts are all clean and bolted together w/o issue. It took me 3 weeks over last summer to get it all buttoned up. I have since put the top back on and drive it a few times a week when weather permits. It won't see salt/rain while I own it.

[caseyfromMO]

Hard top has been on, body mounts are good, doors open and closed fine before I took the drivers door off.

[caseyfromMO]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

looks like quite a few panels are in rough shape. you are at a cross roads - buy patches to weld in or replace the metal completely. I have now done it both ways.

Before you cut anything -

- bolt on the factory hard top
- check the body mounts/bolts - if they are rusted/gone - replace keeping track of shim count and locatin
- check how the doors open/close - shim until they open and close normally

If you don't do these steps first - you are rolling the dice on the fixes you make (time and money spent) - not being done on a solid platform to start.

On one of my projects - I replaced the entire back half of the truck to new sheet metal. It was pricey, but the parts are all clean and bolted together w/o issue. It took me 3 weeks over last summer to get it all buttoned up. I have since put the top back on and drive it a few times a week when weather permits.

I already have all of the patches, minus the BPillar patch (the expensive one) lol.. going to try to make that one.