Porterbuilt Arms Camber Shim Question

[C10agent]

Hey guys - I have been running 1" Narrow 1" Forward arms on my factory cross member and for what I am looking for in my truck they work well.

I just recently got it aligned since the tow was WAY off and the camber didn't look right. Camber was -6 DRIVER and -8 PASSENGER SIDE. Shouldn't I have positive camber? And if so, does anyway have a guess on how many shims it will take to achieve?

Thanks!
Neil

[lolife99]

Drop spindles make the toe way out since the design of the streering arm is moved in to clear the wheel.
Are you saying the alignment shop didn’t try to shim it?

[C10agent]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Drop spindles make the toe way out since the design of the streering arm is moved in to clear the wheel.
Are you saying the alignment shop didn’t try to shim it?

It is already stacked with alignment shims and the guy didn’t really want to add more and said negative camber is good. Is that right?

[lolife99]

Look at this thread,...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=582187

[lolife99]

Did you try adding more air to the front bags?
What psi in the front bags when you aligned it?
Alignment on my blazer was a higher ride height than I wanted.

[C10agent]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Did you try adding more air to the front bags?
What psi in the front bags when you aligned it?
Alignment on my blazer was a higher ride height than I wanted.

I am running SS bags on the front which I really like, running about 65 pounds on the front bags. That is a great point, the more the air, the more they level up. How many pounds are you running?

[lolife99]

I told my alignment guy I wanted the front as low as possible and still be in alignment.
For my blazer that was 80psi.
Air up to 100 psi and then drain down to 80 psi.
That gets it about the same every time.
You NEVER hear anyone talk about alignment. Even on static dropped trucks.
I see so many nice trucks with the front tires cambered way in.
No one talks about how close the a-arms are to the ground, or about hitting them when driving.
It’s all about cool LOW pics on the internet.

[C10agent]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I told my alignment guy I wanted the front as low as possible and still be in alignment.
For my blazer that was 80psi.
Air up to 100 psi and then drain down to 80 psi.
That gets it about the same every time.
You NEVER hear anyone talk about alignment. Even on static dropped trucks.
I see so many nice trucks with the front tires cambered way in.
No one talks about how close the a-arms are to the ground, or about hitting them when driving.
It’s all about cool LOW pics on the internet.

You got that right! I will post my alignment sheet soon so you can look at it. That link was super helpful since I am looking for a good driving truck.

[C10agent]

Alright here are my alignment specs -
LEFT FRONT / RIGHT FRONT
CAMBER -1.0 / -0.9
CASTER 8.9 / 9.1
TOE 0.19 / 0.16

LEFT REAR / RIGHT REAR
CAMBER -0.2 / -0.5
TOE -0.12 / -0.13

[lolife99]

That’s a lot of caster!
It’s almost like you got stock uppers and 1” forward lowers.
Gave your alignment guy work on that caster.

[C10agent]

Originally Posted by lolife99

That’s a lot of caster!
It’s almost like you got stock uppers and 1” forward lowers.
Gave your alignment guy work on that caster.

I need to just get a drop member and say the hell with it. But in the meantime is there anything you see would need to be fixed to make sure it isn’t unsafe?

[lolife99]

The bad thing about a dropmember for you.
The dropmember narrows and recenters the front wheels.
So you would need different control arms.
If yours were just the narrow version you could use them.
Since yours are 1” forward also that will be too much.
Call Porterbuilt and tell them your caster issue.
I still think your alignment guy can get it closer.
Maybe you need a different alignment guy.

[lolife99]

Post up some pics of your front suspension. From the top and bottom.

[SCOTI]

'Factory' specs call for positive camber (+.5). But that was old technology from back in the day & not for something updated/modified.

I target -.5 Camber. It helps keep the tires planted better w/o increasing tire wear any more than what would occur w/the +.5 setting.

I agree w/lolife99.... That's a BUNCH of Caster. Mine is aggressive @ upper 6's. 8-9 is Target 5 or just over.

Toe seems ok. It varies depending on the tire. Bigger (taller/wider) need different set points vs. smaller (shorter/narrower).