Air cleaner question

[03BlkZ]

Ok so please excuse my ignorance here but I really don't know much about air cleaners. I am currently restoring a 70 C10 with a 350 and I am working on the factory air cleaner assembly. I plan to strip it down and repaint it black but I want to replace parts also. What is this that I have circled in red ad is it something that degrades with time? Do I need to replace it? If so where do I get parts?
Thanks

[jocko]

Some good info in posts 13-16 of this thread. I would test the temp switch inside the air cleaner, lubricate then make sure the flapper valve moves freely when a vac signal is applied, and replace any dried out vac lines while you're at it.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by jocko

Some good info in posts 13-16 of this thread. I would test the temp switch inside the air cleaner, lubricate then make sure the flapper valve moves freely when a vac signal is applied, and replace any dried out vac lines while you're at it.

Thanks. I'll take a look.

[Steeveedee]

I'm not seeing the stove pipe (hose) from the exhaust manifold. If that and the shield around the manifold are gone, there's no reason to replace the valve, if it's bad. It closes during cold operation so that warm air from the exhaust manifold helps warm the engine quicker.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm not seeing the stove pipe (hose) from the exhaust manifold. If that and the shield around the manifold are gone, there's no reason to replace the valve, if it's bad. It closes during cold operation so that warm air from the exhaust manifold helps warm the engine quicker.

Here is a better representation of what it is that I have currently.

[dmjlambert]

Do you have the stove pipe that goes down to the exhaust manifold for heated air? That is what that vacuum operated valve is for, to divert warm air when engine is cold.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Do you have the stove pipe that goes down to the exhaust manifold for heated air? That is what that vacuum operated valve is for, to divert warm air when engine is cold.

I will have to look and see. The truck is at my parents house in my dads shop. I won't be back there until friday.

[Stocker]

In case you're not sure -- here's what you're looking for (borrowed from another thread)

[Corts60]

As mentioned above, that is a thermal valve that is used to direct hot air from the stove pipe to the carb to help with cold engine driving. You can test it with a vacuum pump to see if it is operating. You can test the thermal switch with a heat gun to ensure it is closing off vacuum when the engine is warm. When vacuum is applied the flapper is closed.

[03BlkZ]

So I do not have to stove pipe and my manifolds do not have the connection for it. My truck will most likely have headers when done so will it hurt to continue to run this air cleaner. I know it will not function properly but this truck will only really be a nice day and cruise night car show type truck. Or would it be best just to run a standard Edelbrock air cleaner and sell this one?

[dmjlambert]

I asked the question because if you don't have the stovepipe there isn't a need to worry about the vacuum switch and diverter being in working condition. Mine is the same way, I have that air cleaner and the switch and diverter are not connected to vacuum. It works fine as an air cleaner. I gave mine a fresh coat of paint and it looks great and I like the original look. For your original question about do you need to make sure the circled part in your picture is operational or replaced, the answer is no.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I asked the question because if you don't have the stovepipe there isn't a need to worry about the vacuum switch and diverter being in working condition. Mine is the same way, I have that air cleaner and the switch and diverter are not connected to vacuum. It works fine as an air cleaner. I gave mine a fresh coat of paint and it looks great and I like the original look. For your original question about do you need to make sure the circled part in your picture is operational or replaced, the answer is no.

Excellent! Thank you sir! I have heard from others that I am lucky to still have that air cleaner because a lot of people want it for the original look. Glad I can still use it.

[dmjlambert]

You can still use the original carburetor too, if you want. Either rebuild it, have it rebuilt, or buy an exact replacement remanufactured one for about $200 like I did, or buy a brand new one for $350.

Well actually I need to correct myself. After I ordered the exact replacement, I gave them a call and changed my order to a later model Quadrajet with electric choke.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Great thread, I'm ready to dive into the same and didn't know, now I do. I don't fully understand it yet, but close enough to say simple and effective. Shame so many stoves and pipes saw their end ages ago. The stoves too thin. Now we have ceramic coat

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Shame so many stoves and pipes saw their end ages ago.

Yup -- I'm lucky, removed mine decades ago, still have it in great condition. Truth be told, I haven't missed having it on the truck.
I have saved a few parts OEM that I've replaced over the years. Maybe some future owner will appreciate the old bits.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by 03BlkZ

So I do not have to stove pipe and my manifolds do not have the connection for it. My truck will most likely have headers when done so will it hurt to continue to run this air cleaner. I know it will not function properly but this truck will only really be a nice day and cruise night car show type truck. Or would it be best just to run a standard Edelbrock air cleaner and sell this one?

Living in TX, it would seldom be needed even if you had stock manifolds with the heat stove parts - except for those 3 cold days per year in January.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Yup -- I'm lucky, removed mine decades ago, still have it in great condition. Truth be told, I haven't missed having it on the truck.
I have saved a few parts OEM that I've replaced over the years. Maybe some future owner will appreciate the old bits.

You still using the divorce choke, is it warm where you're at?

Very cool 70 402 CST stopped at my place the other day, divorce choke on but no stove. You can get away with it here depending how/when you drive. Years ago I let a mechanic install a manual choke I've since eliminated, because the divorce choke was inadequate without a pipe. Now I understand why. Cold winter mornings here, especially back in the day when the manual choke was installed. My truck was a daily driver at the time.

Had the engine rebuilt near the same time, dude lost my stove I've since recovered both, throwing them on for aesthetics

[special-K]

Most trucks I have had I ran headers on or still ran manifolds but w/o the stove and pipe in place. It never mattered, but I do warm my trucks up before driving. The windshield usually needs defrosting anyway and I like a warm cab when I head out. If the cab is warm the engine got warm first. The role that part plays is so minor you just won't miss it's function. A great idea, but hardly a necessity... except maybe where it is so bloody cold the engine never gets fully warmed up, like sub-zero temps

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

You still using the divorce choke, is it warm where you're at?

Yes, I am.

It's relatively mild here, but early morning in winter often has sub-freezing temps.
Before I retired I would let the truck warm up enough to defrost the windshield.
By then you could drive it with no stumbling.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Can anyone explain how this second port was connected from factory? Thank you

[dmjlambert]

I believe it was connected to the vacuum port on the passenger side of the carburetor.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I believe it was connected to the vacuum port on the passenger side of the carburetor.

Memory now strikes me I had this conversation before. It connects to this unit on the manifold. The open hose retainer in post 20 would support that in location. May vary by year & block.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

OT: I'm prepping my air cleaner for paint, figured out how a THERMOSATICALLY CONTROLLED AIR CLEANER works. The sensor comes off easy enough. Bought another just for stand by, plus the new clip and gasket not such a bad idea

Then I looked to disassemble the vacuum/damper assembly, looks like that order of business begins by pulling the pin out, but it dawned on me the factory painted the air cleaner with it installed. Unless someone talks me out of it, I figure not to mess with the linkage since the assembly works, and what was good enough for factory is good enough for me.

[franken]

From pic 9 it looks like the flapper in the air cleaner is vacuum controlled. The heater provides warm air as the engine warms up.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Pretty much. Unless I'm missing something the temp. sensor/spring/air bleed valve unit opens vacuum flow when air temperature is somewhere under 100F, though the book says it triggers when the temperature is below 85F. The vacuum triggers the diaphragm on the snorkel operating the damper door, so the stove pipe can bake the air cleaner, pretty simple.

recalling an SStim post "you're going around the block to go next door". Still took me this long to understand it really has nothing to do with the choke less allowing it to work for efficiently.

The diaphragm on the snorkel is also called a motor I guess. The manual mentions it just enough to be confusing, a miss on their illustration. Perhaps I'm missing it. I don't know enough why it's characterized as a motor.

Very cool system if it works. I wonder if anyone can attest to the expected life of sensors and diaphragms? I know my diaphragm is good. The system was disconnected before I got the truck in 1989. Luck has it someone knew enough to delete the vacuum source, I'd think that would toast the diaphragm without a stove pipe. Just for kicks pics of the damper door..