Steering column switch

[Breadstick]

I'm replacing the worn out steering column in my 72 C20 (three on the tree). Any advice for doing it?

[dmjlambert]

Do you mean advice about choosing an aftermarket one, getting one rebuilt or rebuilding yourself, or you already have one ready and wonder about the removal and installation?

[Breadstick]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Do you mean advice about choosing an aftermarket one, getting one rebuilt or rebuilding yourself, or you already have one ready and wonder about the removal and installation?

Sorry about that. I'm replacing mine and looking for advice on switching it out. I've never replaced a steering column.

[Willys_MB]

It’s super easy. It took me only a few hours on my 68 and I have more confidence than skill. I have a 4 speed floor shifter, so your column shifter will add some complexity. I would inspect all of your bracketry, especially the “clamp” on the engine side of the firewall. Mine was busted and I just used a hose clamp instead of trying to find one on the parts board. There are a few guys on the board who rebuild columns. I got mine from Randy500, who is no longer a board member. I believe the only special tool needed would be a steering wheel puller, which you can buy for relatively cheap or rent from your local auto parts store.

I also upgraded to the later style two piece drive shaft, but you won’t have to do that. I was happy with the end product, but you may want to look into replacing that, too since I think it has some wear items.

[Getter-Done]

Here is a video that will help, I hope.

Link:https://youtu.be/AOFr8UH6GmI?t=61









.

[dmjlambert]

Things I will add to the above are:

Disconnect the negative terminal at the battery. Put a blanket on your seat to keep it from getting grease on it.

Take lots of pictures so you know how the linkages are connected and where things go. I put bolts and brackets in ziplock bags and write on the bag or on a post-it note what the item is and put the post-it note in the bag with the nut, bolt, or whatever other item.

Take the 2 bolts with nuts on the rag joint (aka steering coupling) at steering gear. For this I find it handy to take off the driver side front wheel and put that side up on a jack stand. Remove the bar that goes across the steering column opening on the inner fender (wheel tub) to get it out of the way. I removed the inner fender, but that's only because I was doing other things in there and wanted it completely out of the way.

There are bolts and brackets to take loose in the engine compartment on the firewall, and a plate and rubber seal to take loose inside the cab at the firewall, and screws, bolts, and brackets to take loose under the dash. There is a funny shape bracket that holds the steering column up under the dash that you'll need to pay attention to the orientation for, when you put the steering column back in.

The upper and lower steering column can be taken apart from each other to make maneuvering easier, because there is a clamp that tightens around a spline. That's where you take it apart. Take pictures and pay attention to the way things fit together. When you're putting it back together, you'll need a helper in the cab to hold the steering wheel down while you push the spline connector up against spring pressure. You leave a 1/2 inch gap in that spring-loaded joint when you tighten the clamp, and that is the lower bearing preload mentioned in manuals.

I was going to recommend the 1972_Chevrolet_Truck_10-30_Chassis_Service_Manual. The procedure is in there. But now I'm not sure because there is an error in the book where it says "Applying 50 lbs. force on the steering wheel end of the steering shaft, adjust the lower bearing preload to allow steering shaft end play as indicated in Figure 5. Tighten the shaft clamp on pot joint bolt to specifications." It is not figure 5, it is figure 18, and the gap they are talking about is 1/2 inch. In other model years such as the 1969 book I have they call the steering column a "mast jacket."

I bought a used 1969 book on eBay for my truck and new ones are available from all the various classic truck parts vendors. I like paper manuals, but PDF copies for various model years are here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

[dmjlambert]

Sorry that was a lot more wordy than I meant to be. I better just get away from this computer.

[Breadstick]

Thanks everyone. I haven't decided if I'm going to get into this today or not since I need to get the brakes lined out before I drive it much and I don't have all the parts yet.

@dmjlambert My driver's side fender well was missing when I got the truck and I haven't put the replacement in for this reason, so that will help. I appreciate the long post. I'll reread it a few times and watch the video @Getter-Done posted before I decide to do anything. I feel like it won't be as bad since the rebuilt one I got from @70shortfleet had a lot of extra things I'd have to switch over like the mounts and wiring already done to it so I think it'll be pretty good. Other than the shifting mechanisms switching over and the pre-load (which I was unaware of so that's great to know) I think it'll just be a lot of paying close attention to how everything goes and taking my time. I'm terrible at both of those things so should be fun.

[BigBird05]

I haven't seen it on here but you will need to remove the light bulb (the one that illuminates the shift indicator) that is in the cluster so you don't damage the fiber optic cord.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by Willys_MB

It’s super easy. It took me only a few hours on my 68 and I have more confidence than skill. I have a 4 speed floor shifter, so your column shifter will add some complexity. I would inspect all of your bracketry, especially the “clamp” on the engine side of the firewall. Mine was busted and I just used a hose clamp instead of trying to find one on the parts board. There are a few guys on the board who rebuild columns. I got mine from Randy500, who is no longer a board member. I believe the only special tool needed would be a steering wheel puller, which you can buy for relatively cheap or rent from your local auto parts store.

I also upgraded to the later style two piece drive shaft, but you won’t have to do that. I was happy with the end product, but you may want to look into replacing that, too since I think it has some wear items.

Two piece driveshaft is an upgrade. I’m having a one piece made so I never have change that low quality carrier bearing again.