55.2-59 Radiator fan does fit. Help !!

[mrbuck]

Got the rad support mounted up today and just when things were going good BAM ! Fan doesn’t clear water pump pulley. It’s a cold case rad. That comes complete with fan and shroud especially for 55-59 trucks. I looks like I’m about an inch short on clearing the water pump.

[mrbuck]

Pics

[mrbuck]

The last picture shows where rad. Support is mounted as I know locations vary from different models.

Can I just move radiator support forward?

Can I mount radiator in front of support? Is there room between grill fenders etc.

Or should I start looking for a thinner fan?

[01spirit750]

Not really an expert, I do not think you can move the radiator forward.
I have mine mounted in the same position and that is all the way forward.
The fenders mount to it so it must be located there.

How is your engine mounted? It seems the engine is set forward a fair amount?

I am running a short water pump setup so that provided another inch or so of clearance between the water pump and the radiator.

I am in norcal also. Where abouts are you located?

Chris

[mrbuck]

spirit_ im in santa rosa,

when you say move radiator forward are you meaning the entire radiator support assembly?

if so does anyone know how much i can move the assebly and still get hood fenders and grill to still fit?

[mr48chev]

Looks like it would work perfect with the mechanical fan that that shroud was intended to be used with.

[joedoh]

there have been a few complaints of overheating with those shroud/electric fan combos because the air is obstructed as it tries to go through the efan opening. looking at it logically, where does the air that flows through the fins in the corners of the rads have to go?

that type of efan already has a "shroud", really a duct for efficiency. you can take the extra aluminum shroud off and mount the efan directly to your rad with some of the ties for rads that go through the fins, that alone would probably give you the spacing you need.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by joedoh

there have been a few complaints of overheating with those shroud/electric fan combos because the air is obstructed as it tries to go through the efan opening. looking at it logically, where does the air that flows through the fins in the corners of the rads have to go?

that type of efan already has a "shroud", really a duct for efficiency. you can take the extra aluminum shroud off and mount the efan directly to your rad with some of the ties for rads that go through the fins, that alone would probably give you the spacing you need.

BINGO! A stock radiator core measures roughly 21"x19" or 420 sq in. A shroud opening for an average 16" fan measures a mere 200 sq in. When you use a shroud you are now trying to force 400"+ through a 200" opening - essentially blocking off half your radiator. That equals RESTRICTION. My cars have all cooled best without a shroud.

[mr48chev]

Just out of curiosity, how far do you have that engine sitting away from the firewall?

Usually when the engine is in it's normal TF truck V8 engine spot guys are trying to get the fan close enough to the radiator especially if the truck was a six cylinder truck to begin with.

[mrbuck]

Not sure haven’t mounted the cab yet. Frame was modified with Heidts M2 front end per their instructions and layout of motor mounts. You can see more in my build thread.

[paulspickupparts]

The 55-59 Chevy trucks ran a short shaft water pump . You have switched your system to a long shaft . So you have eaten up several inches of space. I know you would hate to give up your serpentine belt system but that is what caused the problem . The long shaft water pump never came on these trucks . You do not want to move your radiator support . You will open up a mess . V-8 trucks did come with the support in a different location but was even closer to the engine which you do not want. Go to a short water pump or try the other suggestion to see if you can modify the fan set up.

[NeoJuice]

Put the fan on the front of the rad not the engine compartment side.

Instead of it being a pull fan, it will now be a push fan. I have my fan mounted on the front of my rad and it pushes through the rad just fine. IMO just like MiraclePieCo said I would also remove the shroud because of the air restriction but that's my two bits.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

BINGO! A stock radiator core measures roughly 21"x19" or 420 sq in. A shroud opening for an average 16" fan measures a mere 200 sq in. When you use a shroud you are now trying to force 400"+ through a 200" opening - essentially blocking off half your radiator. That equals RESTRICTION. My cars have all cooled best without a shroud.

They can cool better going down the road without a shroud and then FRY at stop lights because only a small portion of the radiator is having air pulled through it. THAT is why a shroud is used, it allows the fan to pull air through ALL of the radiator, and MORE air at that! Without the shroud the air can be pulled from the sides of the rear of the radiator and not pull it THROUGH the radiator allowing it to cool the fluid that is inside the radiator.

A shroud is much better, but it also needs a fan that is good enough to pull all that air through.

Brian

[_Ogre]

i believe that your motor is too far forward, 58TRUK has a sbc with long pump and has no clearance issues
you really need to have the cab on your frame to properly place the motor and trans
included are a couple pics showing clearances around my ramjet 350
truk is an original V8 truck, i believe the motor is in the stock location
truk runs a shrouded electric fan and has no cooling issues in 100°+ temps with the ac on

[layinrocker65]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

They can cool better going down the road without a shroud and then FRY at stop lights because only a small portion of the radiator is having air pulled through it. THAT is why a shroud is used, it allows the fan to pull air through ALL of the radiator, and MORE air at that! Without the shroud the air can be pulled from the sides of the rear of the radiator and not pull it THROUGH the radiator allowing it to cool the fluid that is inside the radiator.

A shroud is much better, but it also needs a fan that is good enough to pull all that air through.

Brian

I’ll add to this and point out that many aftermarket and most current factory shrouds have doors or flaps to allow air to blow through when cruising and then stay shut when the fan is on during low speed operation. Best of both worlds.

[paulspickupparts]

Looking at the location of of your frame mounts for you radiator support you do have the 6 cylinder mounts and not the V8 support mounts . That is a good thing as your radiator is fitting forward as far as you can go. One way to tell which you have is to look at your frame vin number near where the steering box mounts . If it has a V in the first few digits it it is and original V-8 frame . If it is a 6 cylinder frame it will not have the V in the first few digits .

Looking at your photos of thickness of Radiator + Shroud + Fan Cage + Fan Motor sticking out behind cage equals a fairly long distance . When you add that to your long water pump you are eating up a lot of space. I agree with Joedoh on losing the shroud which may give you the distance you need and or find a fan motor that tucks in a little closer.

Ogre has a good point but remember 58-59 frames are different as are the radiator support . I would have to double check but pretty sure the 58-59 frames are a little longer . Not the wheelbase , just the frames. Hopefully your engine is in the right place . Sometimes aftermarket companies make a one size fits all. The 55-57 frames vary from the 58-59 frames . Sometimes it ok , sometimes its not.

NeoJuice might have the best and easiest solution . Lots of guys run pushers

[mrbuck]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Put the fan on the front of the rad not the engine compartment side.

Instead of it being a pull fan, it will now be a push fan. I have my fan mounted on the front of my rad and it pushes through the rad just fine. IMO just like MiraclePieCo said I would also remove the shroud because of the air restriction but that's my two bits.

Is this really a viable option? It seams to be the easiest solution. Are there any conflicts with grill/ hood latch etc.

[mrbuck]

PaulsPP- yes it’s a 6 cylinder truck, and the radiator does seem big it over 7” including the fan.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i believe that your motor is too far forward, 58TRUK has a sbc with long pump and has no clearance issues
you really need to have the cab on your frame to properly place the motor and trans
included are a couple pics showing clearances around my ramjet 350
truk is an original V8 truck, i believe the motor is in the stock location
truk runs a shrouded electric fan and has no cooling issues in 100°+ temps with the ac on

+1 for inspecting the engine mounting location... You might be able to simply add adjustable mount plates and scoot the engine back, although if you've already made a driveshaft that may be undesireable.

Any time you can put more engine weight behind the front axle I think you are improving your truck.

[mrbuck]

Good idea Dave, the only ones I saw online are dirty dingo and they’re 130 bucks. Might be cheaper than trying to return and replace the radiator and fan parts.

Today I finished the body work on the floor of the cab, I wanted to get that done before mounting it to frame. I need to under coat the cab then I’ll test fit it and see if there is room to move the motor back, and if so how much.

Only thing is I leaving in the morning for Nashville, for a week so it’ll be a bit til,the cab goes on.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by mrbuck

Is this really a viable option? It seams to be the easiest solution. Are there any conflicts with grill/ hood latch etc.

Sorry had to come back and edit my post because I forgot this was 55-59 not 47-53 so I could be wrong if there is enough room I know on my 52 there is plenty of room under the hood latch area for a push fan

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mrbuck

Is this really a viable option? It seams to be the easiest solution. Are there any conflicts with grill/ hood latch etc.

a puller is much more efficient than a pusher. pushers also should have a much more open framework so as not to block airflow into the rad when its off. if you switch your fan to a pusher, you dont need that aluminum shroud on the back of the rad any longer. also, do not put the aluminum shroud on the front of the rad.

shrouds do help pull air through the rad when used with a pulling fan. that shroud is a very poor design, though, there is no angle on the back so there will be a lot of disruptions especially in the corners. you would also want the fan to run all the time, because any time the fan is off the air will be struggling to get through the fan opening through motive flow. usually complete coverage shrouds have a lot of angle to direct the air out of the opening, or a constantly pulling fan to pull the air through, or both.

my advice is to take the aluminum shroud off. I realize you bought it as a shiny engine bay piece, but the e fan in your pictures is ducted and will work just fine up against the rad. I would also say it would cool exactly as much as when installed on the alumunum shroud, because of all the congestion that is happening in the corners, but without the aluminum shroud it will probably only run at stoplights on hot days.

[duramax55]

just my own experience but i was in the same boat as you a while back. I hade no room up front for a fan and a shroud so i went with no shroud to see if fan would keep it cool. So far so good runns nice and cool and i am running a duramax in my 55-2 chevy. I had to put my ac condenser under the box with its own fan, but have air to air in the front of rad. Havent run the truck all that much but i was out in 30 c temp and it stayed cool. Just my two cents

[mrbuck]

Do these pull clips actually work? Them don’t seem like they would secure the fan very well. Anyone ever use these or similar ones?

Four Seasons 53014 - Four Seasons Fan Mount Pull Tie Kits
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-53014

[57tailgater]

To put an electric fan in front of the radiator you’ll need to 1) make sure it’s a pusher and 2) work around the “X” bracing. Looks like the radiator mount is already in the 6 cylinder position which is the furthest ahead of the stock 2 positions. ‘58/59’s have a radiator mount that is further forward but then you’ll get into other front end pieces that won’t bolt together.