47-59 Stretching the engine compartment 6"

[mick53]

On my 53 3100 I plan on widening the front/rear fenders 2". I want to run an 11" rear tire. Super bell made me a custom width front axle. I guess I will have to widen the running board and refit the ends. My primary radiator is almost 8" thick with fan I think. I can probably get it it far enough forward to almost make that end up about where it is. My problem is that I think the 292 is about 3" longer than the 235. Also I have a crank trigger, adapter, 3" blower pully and a 1" dry sump pulley. I was hoping not to end up with a COE. I was thinking of cutting it just in front of the doors and at the bottom of the bump in front of the windshield. Then move the firewall back. I plan on starting on my chassis soon so I just thought I would throw that out there. anybody done this? Any ideas? Feel free to call me crazy. Thank you for your time.

[dsraven]

there is a similar discussion going on here, stretching the cab, hood, cowl area.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=835521

[nvrdone]

I dont see a problem with moving the fire wall back. After all, with all the work you have done on the engine, this should be easy. Ive seen guys use an old wheel barrow to replace the center recessed area to give mor room. that may be an easy way

[mick53]

Originally Posted by dsraven

there is a similar discussion going on here, stretching the cab, hood, cowl area.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=835521

Thank you. I have been reading that but didn't want to hijack the thread.

[duramax55]

mike 53 seeing its a 6 cylinder why not just cut the firewall the with of the engine and put a 6 inch depression on the firewall. Would only be about 8 inches wide this way it wouldn't interfere with the leg room . Just a thought

[mr48chev]

That isn't going to gain him any leg room although he may have to do just that anyhow.
My 250 was a tight fit with the cast iron V8 bellhousing sitting on the 54 crossmember. Not enough space for a real fan that actually moved air even after I shortened the water pump shaft. I'm all body and no legs leg room isn't a big deal for me, I'm 5'10 standing up but sit as tall as my 6'2' cousins sitting down. 28 inch inseam. My issue in my truck has always been gas pedal angle after I chopped the truck and put a lower seat in it. I don't even have a clue as to how many gas pedals I have had in it. I know one lasted one night and I took it out and threw it in the dumpster the next day and started over. If your knee and ankle hurt driving 8 miles you sure aren't going to drive the truck 200 miles one way to an event and turn around and drive back.

[leegreen]

I'd already done a small trans tunnel when replacing floor. My radiator is leaned back slightly to deal with frame swap/steering box. In that configuration the 235 fit with no room for an engine driven fan and precious little clearance pump-radiator.

Fitting in a 250 inline 6 I need more room so I made the existing engine recess in firewall a bit wider and deeper.

I mounted the 250 a bit lower in frame relative to OEM AD cab/engine placement. I can get my hand behind the engine and have room for electric fans:




Hope this gives you some ideas.

A wheel barrel would seem pretty large for an AD cab, this is more like a half a bucket in size

[mick53]

Originally Posted by duramax55

mike 53 seeing its a 6 cylinder why not just cut the firewall the with of the engine and put a 6 inch depression on the firewall. Would only be about 8 inches wide this way it wouldn't interfere with the leg room . Just a thought

Thank you. That's certainly my first choice. When I had all the upgrades done to the TKO they put a midshift kit on it so I'm ok on my shifter with a bench seat. I'm a little concerned about the manifolds. My blower manifold is on the passenger side and my headers are on the drivers side. obviously those will be custom made and there is quite a bit of room under there. I don't know how that all works out with the wipers and cowl vent but that can be worked out. I think my stock looking razzmatazz radio is only 2.5" thick. I guess it's time to quit staring at it and start doing it. Get me some of that old school shade tree data. Thank you for your time.

[MARTINSR]

I am remembering someone I knew who moved the radiator to in front of the support, worked well.

Brian

[whitedog76]

When I was mocking up my Vortec 4200, I ran into similar issues. I trimmed the motor mount section off of the original crossmember, which helped a bunch. When I installed the MII crossmember, it became apparent, the drivetrain needed moved up and back slightly. A Radio Flyer wagon is the exact width of the original floor hole, so that's my plan for the tunnel. I still need a slight notch for the intake manifold. I'm also looking into a Ford Maverick or Jeep TJ radiator. They aren't as tall as the AD radiator, but will fit in the core support.

I know this is just some arm chair quarterbacking, but hope it helps.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

When I was mocking up my Vortec 4200, I ran into similar issues. I trimmed the motor mount section off of the original crossmember, which helped a bunch. When I installed the MII crossmember, it became apparent, the drivetrain needed moved up and back slightly. A Radio Flyer wagon is the exact width of the original floor hole, so that's my plan for the tunnel. I still need a slight notch for the intake manifold. I'm also looking into a Ford Maverick or Jeep TJ radiator. They aren't as tall as the AD radiator, but will fit in the core support.

I know this is just some arm chair quarterbacking, but hope it helps.

All information is good information. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.