Remote Control Battery Disconnect

[BRL]

Would like to step out of my truck at the supermarket and have it still be there when I get back.

Anybody know if they make one of those?

Some kind of in-line solenoid or something.

[body bolt]

You could do it with a remote start. I just use one of these and take the knob with me.

[BRL]

Yea that's one possibility, but I'm thinking about something that doesn't require you to pop the hood every time you leave and return to your truck in the parking lot.

Maybe even a remote that disconnects the small wire that activates the starter solenoid to engage the starter.

It would be nice to step out of your truck, push a button on a remote and "click" the starter is deactivated. ( I have an automatic trans.)

Some switch that isn't accessible from under the dash or make you open the hood every time.

[Getter-Done]

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[67C10Step]

I am thinking about a switch to the starter solenoid or to the distributor. If I kill total battery power every time I get out it will mess up the clock on the radio and all my station pre-sets. I know, not a real issue as long as the truck is still there when I get back.

[geezer#99]

Really confuse the wannabe car thieves!
Take the steering wheel with you.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/asu-s0430

[Grumpy old man]

Why does it have to be remote controlled ? A simple HD on/off switch mounted under the dash will stop Most if not all of "todays" car thieves .

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

I am thinking about a switch to the starter solenoid or to the distributor. If I kill total battery power every time I get out it will mess up the clock on the radio and all my station pre-sets. I know, not a real issue as long as the truck is still there when I get back.

Exactly !

Keep it simple , Every aftermarket electrical goodie that gets added in is just one more potential problem down the road with little to no replacement parts available .

[1967-C10]

just do a hidden kill switch, gnd the points in distributor.
main power would require a contactor with like 500 amp capacity.
starter wire would require amp capacity of about 40 amps.
a kill switch, would require no relay to points.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Why does it have to be remote controlled ? A simple HD on/off switch mounted under the dash will stop Most if not all of "todays" car thieves .



Exactly !

Keep it simple , Every aftermarket electrical goodie that gets added in is just one more potential problem down the road with little to no replacement parts available .

This is what I have

[70cst]

Ideas for Kill switch/anti-theft?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=474293



Kill Switch Ideas

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753451

[LNP]

I use a simple toggle switch hooked up to the neutral safety switch wire. I just hide the switch where its easy to reach without drawing attention when using and out of sight so its not seen by a average thief.

[MARKDTN]

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...dDbGljaz10cnVl

On Amazon

[BRL]

Wow you guys, didn't realize there were so many ideas out there.

Appreciate it!

[kwmech]

A trick I used years ago was to ground the tach wire. It'll crank but not start, maybe a combo of the 2

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by BRL

Yea that's one possibility, but I'm thinking about something that doesn't require you to pop the hood every time you leave and return to your truck in the parking lot.

Maybe even a remote that disconnects the small wire that activates the starter solenoid to engage the starter.

It would be nice to step out of your truck, push a button on a remote and "click" the starter is deactivated. ( I have an automatic trans.)

Some switch that isn't accessible from under the dash or make you open the hood every time.

I consider it a minor inconvenience compared to having my truck stolen. A switch under the dash is right where the thief will be when they hot-wire your truck.

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

I am thinking about a switch to the starter solenoid or to the distributor. If I kill total battery power every time I get out it will mess up the clock on the radio and all my station pre-sets. I know, not a real issue as long as the truck is still there when I get back.

1) Power your radio directly from the battery. I do this anyway because I have CB radios in my truck.

2) Put a pigtail with a 5A fuse in parallel with the switch/relay. That will hold up the clock but not supply enough current to start the engine. Too small of a fuse you'll blow it every time the interior lights come on.

[schovil69]

What you need is the iKey. You'll love this device. Watch the video to find out why,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfRwF7JtMOo&t=1s

[hotrod1]

I used to watch video feeds of parking lots after a car theft to see what happened. The real thieves don't hotwire a car or even get in it. They pull up in an unmarked tow truck (and no license plates), floor jacks, and tow dollies. Some cars can be towed with just the tow truck sling. It takes them less than 2 minutes to take any vehicle and many vehicles are way less than that. It depends on how the drive wheels are placed. If they can get to the drive wheels easily, piece of cake. If they cant access them easily (rear-wheel drive vehicle backed in and no back access) it's a little harder - takes floor jacks and dollies or now certain dollies don't need jacks to lift the car up. Sometimes they will hook up and drag the drive wheels out so they can get to them easier. Any way you do it, 2 minutes max. Some of these guys would take a car and then come back 10 minutes later for more in the same parking lot. If someone sees them, they usually don't have an issue because the observer thinks it's legit and the car is heading to the shop for repair. The only solution I can think of is to not leave your valuable hotrod out of your sight and have good insurance. Sorry guys.

[LNP]

Thats why you hide the switch. Old vehicles can be easily hot wired from under the hood. All you need is a hot wire to the ignition and jump the strarter solenoid direct. No lock steering so wire up fire up drive off. This is why I cut the ground side to the ignition. Most thieves dont think of it. Even hot wiring under the dash wont fix a missing ground. Hell I use to hide a friends 66 Chevelle from him all the time. All I used was a small pocket knife to pick the ignition switch. Everyones ideas are good, each one of us just needs to pick the one best suited for themselves. Honestly I would prefer a 400lb gorilla with a baseball bat. But he doesnt fit on the truck. Because of how inventive todays thieves are todays cars/trucks have a module that disconnects ignition, fuel, starter, etc. by cutting the ground to each of them.

[HO455]

When I was a kid in North Idaho there was a guy who had a pet Cougar that rode around in the back of his Ford Hi-Boy. It would sit on the cab when he went into the store. Nothing moved in the parking lot that the Cougar didn't notice. I never saw anyone go near his truck. The guy was pretty cool to us 10 year olds. We would wait for him to come out then barrage him with questions.

[LNP]

Originally Posted by HO455

When I was a kid in North Idaho there was a guy who had a pet Cougar that rode around in the back of his Ford Hi-Boy. It would sit on the cab when he went into the store. Nothing moved in the parking lot that the Cougar didn't notice. I never saw anyone go near his truck. The guy was pretty cool to us 10 year olds. We would wait for him to come out then barrage him with questions.

lol that would definitely keep me away. lol

[truckster]

Progression Ignition distributors can be disabled via Bluetooth.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by BRL

Would like to step out of my truck at the supermarket and have it still be there when I get back.

Anybody know if they make one of those?

Some kind of in-line solenoid or something.

There are several ways to do that. The best (In my opinion) does not require you to remember to do anything when you leave the truck but, requires you to hit a push button before starting the truck. In other words the system resets and prevents current from flowing until you activate it. You'll need a continuous duty rated golf cart 12v solenoid (rated for 200 amps minimum) a double pole relay and a momentary switch and some creativity.

[zekecorn]

I use "The Club Original Steering Wheel Security Lock" like this one. Mine is "period correct" sort of since I bought back in the 80s.

I know, not fool proof but maybe fool deterrent.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

I used to watch video feeds of parking lots after a car theft to see what happened. The real thieves don't hotwire a car or even get in it. They pull up in an unmarked tow truck (and no license plates), floor jacks, and tow dollies. Some cars can be towed with just the tow truck sling. It takes them less than 2 minutes to take any vehicle and many vehicles are way less than that. It depends on how the drive wheels are placed. If they can get to the drive wheels easily, piece of cake. If they cant access them easily (rear-wheel drive vehicle backed in and no back access) it's a little harder - takes floor jacks and dollies or now certain dollies don't need jacks to lift the car up. Sometimes they will hook up and drag the drive wheels out so they can get to them easier. Any way you do it, 2 minutes max. Some of these guys would take a car and then come back 10 minutes later for more in the same parking lot. If someone sees them, they usually don't have an issue because the observer thinks it's legit and the car is heading to the shop for repair. The only solution I can think of is to not leave your valuable hotrod out of your sight and have good insurance. Sorry guys.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I Agree^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^