47-59 Steering column transition thru the firewall?

[Phungki]

What are you guys doing that aren’t doing it stock?
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[56 3100]

i used metal plate on bottom with hole for column to go through welded around
diameter. using stainless screws around edges.

[dsraven]

I have seen a few different variations of clamping styles for a tubular column clamp at the firewall exit. what i would do is fab something up. you could use a flat plate bent to fit the floor, drill a hole in it the size of the column with a little wiggle room, then take a piece of flat bar and wrap it around a pipe the same diameter as the column, make a couple of tabs on it for a bolt to go through so it becomes the clamp around the column tube, then weld that to the plate on the floor, after you sluip the column through and get the angles set etc. you could also make the flat plate as above but use a piece of angle iron that will also weld or bolt to the floor then use a muffler style clamp to hold the column, sorta like the idea used for clamping electrical conduit. check out the home depot pages for some ideas. chain link fencing clamps could be used oif they are the correct size and you don't mind galvanised parts. or grind off the plating.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...98EB/312373213

https://www.buisklem.com/product-gro...ng-pipe-clamps

unistrut makes some saddles and clamps that may start the creative juices flowing as well. a loxcal supplier could likely hook you up.

https://www.unistrut.us/products/1-5...rical-fittings

[dsraven]

these would need to be mounted to an angle iron bracket on the floor but provide some vibration absorption and easily come apart for repairs


https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/P...p/GREG6HD6-238

these could also be made to work if you can find the right size

https://solarsuperstore.ca/products/...pipe-clamp-kit

[dsraven]

or the old standard, cheap, exhaust clamp with the saddle welded to the floor plate once the system is in place and the angles are figured out.

https://www.amazon.ca/Walker-Exhaust...81765332&psc=1

[dsraven]

if you fab a metal plate for the floor, and find a rubber grommet that will fit around the column nicely, you could drill the through hole in the plate to accept the grommet and that would weather seal the column to the firewall. then some sort of clamp directly upstream of that to secure the column tube. like the old muffler clamp idea for a cheap fix.

[Jesse72]

Ididit sells a floor mount, you will also need a 3.5in drop for whatever size your column is. I used this the first time.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/2400030051/10002/-1

I am currently "rebuilding" my truck and I am debating on installing one of these ball style mounts with the hole welded up. Both will work fine.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Ididit/535/2401550040/10002/-1

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Phungki

What are you guys doing that aren’t doing it stock?
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I guess the main question is... is this EXACTLY where you want the column to be? Will you ever change it?

[skip99]

I just used a piece of muffler pipe,

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

I guess the main question is... is this EXACTLY where you want the column to be? Will you ever change it?

That is a well asked queston.

There are a ton of ways to cleanly install a steering column and a thousand ways to do it rather crude in the end product.

For street rods they sell a setup that lets you have some adjustement angle and is clean but won't allow for any shift arms or what nots on the end of the column https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...SABEgK-RfD_BwE

There are also a number of rubber boots with trim rings around like this https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/j...SABEgLZUvD_BwE

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Watso...CABEgL-gPD_BwE

Plus there is always that chance of snagging something out of the rig that donated the column if you use a donor column .

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

I guess the main question is... is this EXACTLY where you want the column to be? Will you ever change it?

Yes I do plan on it staying in this spot
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[e015475]

My column is held in with a clamp made out of a piece of split tube that's isolated with some rubber. Two tabs on either side go through the firewall to hold it in place. I made a stainless steel trim ring that's also held on with the column mount on the inside of the cab. When I get the truck upholstered, my plan is to make a boot for the inside of the engine bay. Here's what it looks like in the engine bay...............



Here's the inside of the cab. Sorry there's some dum-dum plugging the hole a bit to keep the draft out. The worm clamp is just an artifact of the column installation and will be removed. By the time the sound deadner and carpet backing are installed the clamp should be covered and the carpet will wrap smoothly around the column

[dsraven]

for a boot on the firewall side check out a front wheel drive vehicle where their steering column comes through. you might find something that will work and look ok.held on with a C/V boot clamp or the like.

[fauXGT]

Moved the column (stock, with modified stock wheel) to the drivers side .75" at the firewall to give a bit of 2 seat per bench room, and the V8 clearence under the hood to a rack and pinion setup.
Fit before teardown for paint. A stock seal boot should work being it is just pushed to the side and not up/down, but won't find out til final assembly.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Phungki

Yes I do plan on it staying in this spot
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If you can get the column through a 2"ish hole in a metal plate, then I'd go with a metal plate to cover that recess in your cab, including blocking off other holes you dont need, then use a swiveling chrome floor mount to clamp the column to the plate, and you can move the floor mount above the carpet when its time for that.

[R&B51]

I like your original question. I had posted one recently about steering column angle and got some good advice. I’m still trying to use and figure out.
Question more than an answer, how come you don’t see people terminating their column inside the truck more often? Bracket attaching to the dash of above, homemade or simple bracket at the inside of firewall, and then just have a swivel pillow block as below to allow steering shaft to exit on engine side may be a little cleaner?

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Mount-Steering-Shaft-Bearing/dp/B01MTD9BWV
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[dsraven]

I think the old trucks are not that structurally strong to hold a steering column outer tube above the floor level, since originally the steering column tube was integral to the steering box so really the floor grommet is simply a seal, so if you are talking about hanging a steering column off the dash and then terminating the outer tube before it exits the floor, and using a bearing mounted to the floor to support the inner column shaft, then that would mean you would need some more structure under the dash to support the weight of it all. then, if you add in a set of dash/firewall mounted pedals and a brake booster you are possibly asking more of the firewall and dash than it was designed to handle. firewall flex means sooner or later something is gonna crack. thats not really good if youre talking about the things that make the truck stop.
a little better explanation of what you mean may help us figure it out though. how would you support the column inside the truck if the column outer tube is cut off before it can be anchored to the floor?

[R&B51]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I think the old trucks are not that structurally strong to hold a steering column outer tube above the floor level, since originally the steering column tube was integral to the steering box so really the floor grommet is simply a seal, so if you are talking about hanging a steering column off the dash and then terminating the outer tube before it exits the floor, and using a bearing mounted to the floor to support the inner column shaft, then that would mean you would need some more structure under the dash to support the weight of it all. then, if you add in a set of dash/firewall mounted pedals and a brake booster you are possibly asking more of the firewall and dash than it was designed to handle. firewall flex means sooner or later something is gonna crack. thats not really good if youre talking about the things that make the truck stop.
a little better explanation of what you mean may help us figure it out though. how would you support the column inside the truck if the column outer tube is cut off before it can be anchored to the floor?

Dsraven- wise words, reason for post was to hear good experience on this.
I used another member’s idea and notched dash using 3” heavy pipe tread center between gauges(got rid of asymmetry of old shifter notch), cut and metal worked that portion of dash into “funnel “ to create maybe 3” seam weld inside and under either side of half tube, had to notch the firewall to dash support some so added extra steel on top then welded both to firewall (took out those two bolts to smooth) and inside back of dash. Will clamp upper column tube into this half tube. Seems stronger than stock?
Below was considering something like this bracket inside firewall:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/70492/10002/-1

It would clamp bottom end column tube terminated just inside/at firewall then the pillow block type on engine side to stabilize actual shaft before knuckles adjust shaft angle likely through another heim joint off frame.
I could fab some oversized plate inside/outside to help?
Firewall recess seems to have stiffened firewall and used 16 gauge on it as well.
Just haven’t seen anyone run just shaft through wall…also, shaft I was looking at is DD all the way and the swivel pillow block has round hole.
Maybe fill with seam seal?
Dunno, seeking opinions.
Definitely not stock as original post tossed out!
Some pictures might help (my firewall, smoothing welds are not pretty, but they are strong, please don’t judge me. Hoping a thin layer of Eastwood filler I bought will help the looks)
See smaller red circle hole lines up better and candidate for pillow block.
Larger to right could just push column through but maybe doubles the angle of shaft.
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[R&B51]

Pic of clamp type and dash notch :
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[R&B51]

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[R&B51]

Try again
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[leegreen]

I did the same notch in dash to get the column up higher. Column mount, dash and pedal box are all tied together. Box goes to firewall and supports firewall with a large plate. Should be plenty strong for brake and clutch.

I'm not sure what you gain by putting the pillow block outside the firewall....isn't that just as untidy as the usual setups? If you want to tidy firewall why not keep the original steering column lower bearing but shorten the tube so that bearing is inside the line of the floorboard. weld a flange onto the tube to go inside floor for mounting. Then you could have a ~1" hole for shaft to protrude through

[dsraven]

I like LG's plans that tie the pedal box, dash and firewall together for a sturdy one piece member that bolts together, especially if you are prone to grabbing the steering wheel to help you get in. a plate on the firewall is a great idea to help support all that and not allow cracking. some ribbed (for strength) sheet would work well possibly and could be spot welded onto the inside of the firewall for a clean firewall look on the outside. if the edges were also bent at a 90 with a short lip that would make the sheet even stronger and allow for mounting other small things like wire harness retainer clips etc to keep things out of the way of the pedals etc. I have a task force truck and am using the bolt on sheet metal bubble that mounts the pedals, brake booster and master cyl, accel pedal, has a hole with a grommet for the steering shaft, and another for wiring, bolts up to the steering column and dash. it is recessed to allow a little more leg room inside and that gives it strength as well. all in all a pretty sturdy set up. I probably have more width on my firewall and floor than you do though.

[dsraven]

here are a couple of pics of that set up. I am also using the steering column from the donor vehicle and you can see how GM has put that together so only the shaft protrudes through the firewall. this rubber or urethane boot attaches to the rack just outside the firewall co it's vary clean and weatherproof. just some ideas. possibly some wings welded to the column tube or some winged clamps on the tube could be bolted to some reinforements from the dash to the firewall or, if you are running a firewall mounted booster and hanging pedals, you could make it work with the column bolted to the pedal bracket.

[leegreen]

How does that casting length line up with dash/firewall?

Not mentioned in this thread yet, but there needs to be some thought to collision damage, I think you don't want the bottom of the column mounted too strong, just located. Mine is in a sleeve it would slide in if the floor got pushed up. The factory mount of the '80s c10 column I was using when I built just supported the lower column with the edge of a 2 piece sheet metal & rubber grommet thing.
The slip joint of the 80s and 90s columns from GM I have seen is external to the column, inside the column is solid shaft