Hub Cap Removal Tool

[Orange Crate]

I just had my Accuride rims powder coated and wanted to see how some stock hub caps would look with the new color of the rims (spinnaker white). I could NOT get the hub cap off (without scratching the rim). I spent a lot of time searching flea markets and swap meets for these decent hub caps (12" 4X4) so any more scratches or dents were not ok. It took a few minutes to come up with something to get them off without damage but here it is, it worked perfect and no scratches on the rims or caps. I have some 3/8" stainless rod to make exhaust hangers, so I used that along with a torch and a ball peen, added a small section of old hose at the pivot. The new tool needs to be applied as close to the "nub" on the rim as possible. I installed and removed the cap probably 15 times. I did notice on the rims that the four "nubs" are two different styles. It looks like two have a little more of a "hook' to them and then the other two are a little smoother to keep the cap centered. When I was using my new tool it worked best when applying it next to one of the nubs with the deeper hook. I have an original 72 eight lug rim and it also seems to have the two different type of nubs, but maybe I'm just making that up....idk. Enjoy!

[Sicklajoie]

Or $10 at Harbor Freight for these.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I have two that work, and one that's perfect for the application. It's the top of the middle tool in the group above.

Regular cap removers are a big no-no.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Or $10 at Harbor Freight for these.

So you use these to remove your caps? Which one doesn't scratch or dent the cap?

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

So you use these to remove your caps? Which one doesn't scratch or dent the cap?

They're plastic, so they're not likely to scratch the paint.

[dmjlambert]

This is the one I have and I recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFOSBY

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by truckster

They're plastic, so they're not likely to scratch the paint.

Plastic? That's not going to work on my caps and the Accuride rims. These things are tight and that's a good thing. Maybe they might work on the old rusty original rim I have but not the new fresh ones.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

This is the one I have and I recommend it.
Attachment 2326103
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFOSBY

Yes, very similar to what I made (for about $10) and it should outlast me and my truck.

[slikside]

OC,

I just use a small (6-7") 90* crow bar, but with a piece of scrap leather that protects both wheel and cap. But mine is all stock...no problem.

But those caps, on that wheel, no way mine would work. Really nice adaptation and tool fab you did there for your unique application. Nice job.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Could just dip your metal tools in "Plasti Dip": https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-D...03-6/202196703

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Plastic or no plastic, if your wheels are nice tape up the contacts. Otherwise you scuff the wheels up.

It's worth mentioning, I noticed my original wheels are designed so there's a gap between one nub and cap. That's for prying. Sometimes that space is inconvenient, so just spin the tire.

I couldn't get my bar similar post 6 to work. Perhaps if I grinded the tip thinner, and sand paper to 3000 grit

[special-K]

Nice tool that does what you need it to do, thought up and created by you in your shop using what you had. This is what it's all about. I do something different. Well, everyone does because yours is the only one! I do something different but I see no point in recommending using anything else. Great job. And you are correct in prying right next to the nub

I always ran 9.75"w rims with hubcaps, but way back the hubcaps weren't made of gold and I didn't start powder coating wheels until the late '80s. The first time I got a flat I went into my (carpentry) tool boxes and grabbed a cat's paw (nail puller). It worked perfect for deep dish rims that made removing even harder. I always had that tool in my truck, so I was all set. If that chipped the paint it was only a time or two and no big deal. I never damaged a cap doing this. My painted wheels I would refinish every few years anyway.

I did it the same once I started powder coating my wheels. On the '72 K/20 Cheyenne Super Custom Camper I had, what I consider my first collector truck, I chipped a wheel...argh! That's when I started grabbing a rag, cardboard, or leather to lay between the tool and wheel.

But now that wheels, hubcaps, and powder coating cost so much I finally bought my 1st hubcap removal tool. It was cheap and it works perfect for both removal and dent-free installation. I've only used it on Accurides, probably won't work on wide wheels.

I have all kinds of plastic pry tools and they just flex on these tight fitting caps. Most things you don't want to scratch only require light prying and these work well for that. But with hubcaps it's tight fitting lightweight metal requiring some hard prying that I find the plastic pry bars no good for.

[Sheepdip]

The tool you made works for you and gives you the satisfaction it's not going to mar your wheels, and that's all that counts....IMHO.

[697498chevy]

Interesting post ! Think I use the O.E. lug wrench that came in my C -10 . Probably marks up the wheel but that's ok . Steelman tool looks like a good solution . Thanks .

[Sicklajoie]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

Plastic? That's not going to work on my caps and the Accuride rims. These things are tight and that's a good thing. Maybe they might work on the old rusty original rim I have but not the new fresh ones.

Trust me.
My rims were powdercoated and those caps were on there tight, but they came off with those plastic things easy-peasy.

[Sicklajoie]

Kinda off topic, but I hafta ask (yeah I'll be THAT guy)
I see you have a 72, but your pic shows 76-87 hubcaps. Are you sticking with those or going to 69-75 caps?
Mine came with the latter type, and the first thing I did was rip them off. It looks so much better with the correct year caps.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Kinda off topic, but I hafta ask (yeah I'll be THAT guy)
I see you have a 72, but your pic shows 76-87 hubcaps. Are you sticking with those or going to 69-75 caps?
Mine came with the latter type, and the first thing I did was rip them off. It looks so much better with the correct year caps.

Yeah....but what about your spare?

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Could just dip your metal tools in "Plasti Dip": https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-D...03-6/202196703

Nice! I think I'll dip the whole truck in it.....

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Kinda off topic, but I hafta ask (yeah I'll be THAT guy)
I see you have a 72, but your pic shows 76-87 hubcaps. Are you sticking with those or going to 69-75 caps?
Mine came with the latter type, and the first thing I did was rip them off. It looks so much better with the correct year caps.

Ya, I know. So you are going to sell me your caps for $25 a piece? I may not even run the ones I have but i did spend a lot of time looking for decent examples. I can't afford the correct ones......

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Trust me.
My rims were powdercoated and those caps were on there tight, but they came off with those plastic things easy-peasy.

Hhhmm, ya, Chinese plastic vs custom made 304 stainless steel (for cheap).

[Sicklajoie]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Yeah....but what about your spare?

Changed it since that picture above.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by special-K

Nice tool that does what you need it to do, thought up and created by you in your shop using what you had. This is what it's all about. I do something different. Well, everyone does because yours is the only one! I do something different but I see no point in recommending using anything else. Great job. And you are correct in prying right next to the nub

I always ran 9.75"w rims with hubcaps, but way back the hubcaps weren't made of gold and I didn't start powder coating wheels until the late '80s. The first time I got a flat I went into my (carpentry) tool boxes and grabbed a cat's paw (nail puller). It worked perfect for deep dish rims that made removing even harder. I always had that tool in my truck, so I was all set. If that chipped the paint it was only a time or two and no big deal. I never damaged a cap doing this. My painted wheels I would refinish every few years anyway.

I did it the same once I started powder coating my wheels. On the '72 K/20 Cheyenne Super Custom Camper I had, what I consider my first collector truck, I chipped a wheel...argh! That's when I started grabbing a rag, cardboard, or leather to lay between the tool and wheel.

But now that wheels, hubcaps, and powder coating cost so much I finally bought my 1st hubcap removal tool. It was cheap and it works perfect for both removal and dent-free installation. I've only used it on Accurides, probably won't work on wide wheels.

I have all kinds of plastic pry tools and they just flex on these tight fitting caps. Most things you don't want to scratch only require light prying and these work well for that. But with hubcaps it's tight fitting lightweight metal requiring some hard prying that I find the plastic pry bars no good for.

Much appreciated input. Yes that feeling when you put the first chip on your new rims.....

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Changed it since that picture above.

Ok, I'll take those off your hands...Can you overnight them?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

Trust me.
My rims were powdercoated and those caps were on there tight, but they came off with those plastic things easy-peasy.

Mine too, though primed, painted and clear. I keep the tool in my glove box, it's the only thing in there besides a copy of my build sheet, registration and insurance. I like to put a little grease on the nubs.

OT, took me a minute to figure out how to install them peacefully. I found to simply install the cap under the lower nubs, and give the top "the Fonze", easy-peasy.

Here's my second easiest cap remover tool. I filed it down and sanded some. Couldn't tell you what it's called other then a prying tool, or where I got it. Insert and turn the handle.

[special-K]

It's nice to run the correct caps and the all original look is great. But nothing wrong with the next design and I can't honestly say one looks any better than the other. They both look equally great, but when correct matters original looks best. It's like arguing over which custom wheel looks best