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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ballston Lake, NY
Posts: 161
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2" or 4" Lift
Hey everyone, I know this a matter of opinion, but that is what I am looking for. I have a 72 Suburban that I am restoring. I like the way a 2 lift looks, tires and all. A great example is Teeitups vehicles, they look awesome. My best friend however, whose opinion I actually listen to from time to time is like: the cost is the same, how can you not go with the 4 lift? What do you guys think? Thanks, Joe Bob
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 5,904
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your buddies opinion is the same reason we went with 2.5" lift on our jeep rather than stock.. same price.. if you got 4" would you go bigger tires and such? the cost may add up more than you want to spend. or may not be worth, what you plan on doing with your sub.
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Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call |
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#3 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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I went with 2" of lift myself (actually it ended up being closer to 3") but it was an advertised 2" lift. But like you said it does look good. A lot of people would say if your going to do 4" you might as well go with 6". So I'd say get what you want, if your sure in a couple months your not going to kick yourself then you made the right decision. I have pics in my sig link.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() |
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#4 |
Top of the foodchain
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 3.5 miles from Mile Hi Stadium
Posts: 127
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If you go 2"lift, you might as well go 4", But why stop at 4"? When you could go 6"!With the mods it takes to do 6" lift you could do a 12" lift. But 18" sounds about right to fit the 52" mud boggers you want!!!
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1970 K-10 4x4 1975 Jeep CJ-5 4x4 1990 Jeep XJ 4x4 Smell the Magic! |
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#5 |
Just like to part out trucks!!
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Meriden, Ks-North of Topeka 10 miles
Posts: 27,395
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THANKS Joe Bob!! I like the 2 inch its easier to get in and out of and still looks tough! If you go 2 you need to make your blocks 3 inch in the back because of leaf spring sag or put new rear springs on. Atleast I've had to on all mine. Especially the burb because they are so heavy. Good luck, Randy
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67 Chev swb stepside 4x4 283 4 speed SOLD 72 blazer 4x4 4 speed Cheyenne 72 GMC swb 4x4 fleet 4 speed, original paint 1958 Cameo (one of 1405 built, it was my dads) 2020 chevy Apex 4x4 crew cab 1969 Z28 with the 302 1980 chevy swb 4x4 1964 chevell Malibu SS 1976 K20, sold new originally out of my dads chevy dealership Members that I've met, over 200 probably closer to 300 in the 12 years I've been on this site, everyone I met "It was a pleasure" |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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I'm going with a 4" on my truck, but my truck isn't being built to drive on the street and its also gonna be running 35x12.5" tires. I would say if your going to be just driving on the street and not planning to use it for much serious off-roading I would go with about a 2.5" lift with some 33's.
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ballston Lake, NY
Posts: 161
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Thanks for all the input guys. Randy, that is great advice about the three-inch blocks, because I was trying to decide weather or not to get new rear leafs. Right now it is at a friends shop getting a new exhaust. It will be a good time to get his opinion on the life left in the rear leafs. (But other than being broken, who knows?) It looks like I am going to be going with a 2 lift for right now. I will be hauling the family mostly, and I have three young kids, and a wife who does not seem to bend like she once did! (ha ha) For its current intended use, and the look I am going for, that will do it for now. Thanks again, Joe Bob.
Last edited by JOE BOB; 01-17-2004 at 04:16 AM. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sebastopol Miss.
Posts: 169
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Liketeeitup said , Get 1 inch taller blocks for rear whether you go for 2 or 4 in. lift. Althought I've got a set of AAL's for sale I wouldn't recommend them for your DD to make truck sit level It will ride like a 3 legged billy goat.
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EXPERIMENTAL STAGES OF SANITY _____________________________ Run whatcha brung, and hope you brung enuff |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111
Posts: 1,138
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it looks liek you've already decided on what i was goiing to sat but my '85 Blazer with 2" lift will still fit in most parking garages but has enough lift to look tough and get through some stuff...
-Nick
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-'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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I would say if your not planning on wheeling it much and just want it to look a little tougher I would say go with the 2-2.5" lift and some 33x12.5 inch tires on 15x8 rims.
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,739
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Destructo has you on the right track. First decide what you have/will do about gear ratio. Then decide what size tire you are going to run, THEN pick your lift. I would avoid blocks COMPLETELY. They exacerbate wheel hop and accelerate sag on the leafs. I know, it costs more. BUT it's cheaper than doing it twice like I did. I first had 1 1/2" add-a-leaves and 2 1/2" cast iron blocks. This was responsible for breaking one rear end at least. Bent the spring perches on the housing as well. If you have 3.08 gears, you won't be happy with 33 or 35 inch tires. If you run 3.73, 33's are near perfect. 4.10 with 35's. Actually, if you have an automatic you could do 3.73 as well. I originally intended to run 33's on my jimmy, but thought it looked stupid with the 4" lift AND I had 4.10 gears from the parts truck which were going to be too much for highway driving with the 33's. I pieced the lift together from a parts kit I bought. It was never installed, but not in the package. If I did it again I would go with the 2 1/2" lift and 33's with 3.73. This is also the best time to determine if you want to upgrade to 8 lug if you have a 1/2 ton truck. Just depends on how much power you make and what you intend to do with the truck, but it is cheaper to not buy wheels and tires TWICE.
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44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ballston Lake, NY
Posts: 161
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Hey Guys, thanks for the advice. It looks like the right thing to do is go with the new rear springs as well. Nick, how do those 33s fit with that lift? It looks awesome by the way. I thought I was going to have to go with 32 with a 2 lift. (But then again, that is only ½ on top, and ½ on bottom). I have a stock posi rear end, according my literature, that means it could be either 3:07 or 3:73. Looks like I will be pulling the pumpkin cover and doing some math. I really hope it is 3:73. Thanks, Joe Bob. P.S. I have a 14 bolt corporate eight lug with 3:73 gears. Maybe I build my own "Super Burb" someday! LOL.
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111
Posts: 1,138
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i dont have any rub with the 33x12.5 tires and the 2" lift
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-'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ballston Lake, NY
Posts: 161
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Nick, those look like Rally wheels. What width are they? Thanks, Joe Bob
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111
Posts: 1,138
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theyre not rallys but i'm not really sure what width they are...were on there when i bought it...i'd guess maybe 10"
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-'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda |
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#16 | |
The Blazer King
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Valrico, Fl (Tampa)
Posts: 1,212
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Quote:
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72 2wd Blazer. Its the superbichinest, megacoolinest, superflowinest. |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,739
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If no one has monkeyed with your front diff, there is a metal tag installed by Dana between two of the cover bolts. This tag has a part number as well as the axle ratio on it. Makes it easy to tell gears on a 4x4, just look at the tag! Actually, this is true on trucks with Dana 44's and 60's in the rear as well. Pisses me off when somebody changed fluid or cover and didn't put the tag back on...
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44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax |
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