Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-23-2004, 01:22 AM | #1 |
Custer had a plan too.
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: No. California
Posts: 344
|
Dash Repair and High Hump Convert
I am trying to figure out the best way to repair hacks to the radio and ignition holes in my dash.
Has anyone repaired their dash by cutting the top and bottom of the glovebox hole and the top and bottom of the dash bezel hole. The top would be cut through the dash pad slots. A donor dash would be cut similarly and welded in. Because the glove box door and instrument bezel would hide most of the welding and/or grinding imperfections, this seems like an easier way than replacing the entire dash and cutting spot welds. Anybody have a not cut, non AC, dash panel to sell? I am also going to convert from a low to a high hump. Is it as easy as cutting a hole (using an unbolted high hump as a template) and bolting on the HH? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! |
01-23-2004, 04:18 AM | #2 |
Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
|
Where to cut
OK, after your Sawzall has warmed up, here are the easiest places to make the cuts. Looks like you have it nailed already but, here goes for some folks that need an update. If you cut in the places specified, it will require very little welding and refinishing. On the top, cut through the elongated punched holes under the dashpad. On the sides, notice the piece of masking tape ? That's where you want to make your vertical cuts. The same distance in on the gauge side too. Try and keep your cuts as straight as possibe. It will make it that much easier when you weld it back together. You should be able to finish this job in under an hour. The high hump is really easy. Just cut where the depression in the sheetmetal under the high hump. GM already gave you the template on that one. Hold the new hump in place, mark the mounting holes, drill them out and bolt the new high hump in. Make sure all wiring and everything else is out of the way before you begin cutting...Good Luck !!!
__________________
Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! Last edited by gonebad2; 01-23-2004 at 05:21 AM. |
01-23-2004, 05:29 AM | #3 |
Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
|
Oh yeah, you might find it easier to make your first cuts through the bottom lip under the instrument panel and glove box. The sheetmetal there is doubled up and and is a little more difficult to cut through. Make your last cuts through the elongated punched holes under the dash. This should keep bending of the rest of the dash and vibration down to a minimum. Cut the dash out first then trim the patch panel down to fit. If someone is sending one out to you, ask them to make the vertical cuts at about the middle of the glovebox and the middle of the instrument panel. That will provide you with more than enough material to work with. Don't forget to pay attention to where your centerline is when you are trimming the patch panel.
__________________
Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! Last edited by gonebad2; 01-23-2004 at 11:38 AM. |
01-23-2004, 03:52 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Monroe, La 71202
Posts: 317
|
I have a non ac dash thats out of a 72 and blue . i took everything out of it. still got the box lid on it though.
forgot to say i still have everything that went in it including the harnmess. idiot lit kind ibelieve. just didnt sound like you needed that stuff. 69k5 Last edited by 69k5; 01-23-2004 at 04:23 PM. |
Bookmarks |
|
|