lowering

[Robznob11]

any one have any tips on lowering these trucks. Im thinking i can c notch the rear and relocate the coils on the trailing arms to acheive a rear drop and I all ready have beltec 3" drop springs on the front. I thought about 2.5 drop spindles and lowering controll arms. Im going for a low pro street look and from my measurements I think after tubbing the swbed I can fit about a 16.5 tire under there by moveing the spring. If any one has accomplished this look or has pics please let me know..

[gr8scott51]

Almost all of the vendors have kits for lowering the trucks. The kits are generally cheaper than individual parts. Of course it depends on how low you want to go. You don't have to relocate the springs, but you will have to change the shock mount locations. Try Early Classic Enterprises, Classic Performance Parts, etc.

scott

[Robznob11]

Id like to go at least 6 on all 4 corners but I think 8 would look more like the drag truck effect im after. with 2.5 c arms and 2.5 spindles and the 3" springs ill have 8" in front. I think i would have to c-notch and relocate the springs in board and make a new upper and lower mount on them to clear the tires and get that much in the rear. blocks are out of the question becuas i want to hook up. I was just wondering if any one else had a lowered drag set up.

[SCOTI]

You can fit a 15x14" wheel w/9.75" back space on a stock width 68 12bolt coil rear axle & a 31x18.5 mickey thompson tire w/o relocating the springs. You will need to 'tweak' the e-brake cable & of course have to slice & dice the tubs.....

[Robznob11]

I had no idea that I could go that big. have you seen this done. I noticed that your in dallas I travel through there every week. so is that back space custom or common if its coustom do you know any one who might have it. thanks agin

[SCOTI]

I had this exact combo on my RestoRod67 a few years ago. The wheels were custom built corvette ralleys. I did remove the factory rear bumpstop & bracket & stretched my tubs to the frame (they're about 20" wide but look like factory tubs).

Progress changed my direction once 20's were available in tall enough tire sizes so I sold them to an old high school buddy around 1996/7. That was the main reason I didn't narrow my rear end.... I knew I wanted to get the big diameter wheels but I had to wait for the aftermarket to catch up w/the tire sizing. I would recommend air bags w/this combo though.... it would make pulling the wheels off much easier w/the wheel well lip farther away (that's a lot of wheel back-spacing & steel wheels aren't light).

I only have older pics & as of now I can't scan them. But... if your in Dallas often, I could meet for a beverage somewhere & show you the scrapbook pics so you have a better idea how it would look.

[Robznob11]

how low did it set. Im thinking when the bed sets down further the gap may close.

[SCOTI]

It had @ least a 6" drop (it had to have the frame c-notched). I remember pulling the wheels/tires off to do any work was a pain in the a**. But w/air bags, you can air it up & it would be much easier to pull the wheels off because of the added clearance. Back then, it didn't have air-ride.... it was all static (fixed) drop.

[PrimeredThunder]

After reading how low you want to go and the wheels/tires you want to run I'm going to have to second SCOTI and suggest you run airbags. With a static suspension that is that low your going to be scraping your control-arms all over the place. Go adjustable if you plan on driving your truck quite a bit.