control arm bushings

[rich62step]

What is the best way to replace upper & lower control arm bushings? I have put a 75 chev front crossmember on my 62 chevy 1/2 ton. Now is the perfect time to do all of the work. Have removed both balljoints both sides and plan on new tie rod ends inner-outer. It looks like the top arm can only come out one way, can they be pressed out or ? Thanks Rich

[swervin ervin]

Here's the way I did my truck. This is sections from a article I did on my front suspension rebuild. The whole article is at http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/frontend.htm


[b[Control Arm Bushing Removal:[/b]

This is a real pain in the butt the first time you try this. I found out it's not all that hard to do once you figure out what needs to be done in order to get these out. The upper control arm bushings are easier to do than the lower because they have the insert sticking out from the control arm. What I used to remove mine was an array of tools. The most important tool I had was my air chisel. This will make easy work of removing the bushings. If you don't have an air chisel and compressor, you can get by with a real good cold chisel and hammer. Again, they make tools to remove the bushings but I couldn't locate any. You will need a good bench vise to hold the control arms stationary while you work on them. First remove the cross shaft nuts and washers. Keep the washers and nuts for upper and lower control arms separated because they are different. For the upper control arm bushings, place the chisel on the bushing insert flange and start chiseling. It will take a little time but you will finally start to see the insert start moving. Work around the insert while using the air chisel (or chisel and hammer) and it should come out fairly easy. Once you have one bushing out, you can remove the cross shaft. Now it's just a matter of removing the other bushing and insert.

The lower control arms are a bit more tough. Partly because of no area on the insert to put the chisel onto while you get the bushing started. Make an aligning mark on the control arm and on the cross shaft so you will have a reference point so you will have the holes in the shaft in the same place as before removal. Again, remove both cross shaft nuts and washers. I found it easier to lay mine in the floor upside down to gain access to the space on the back side of the bushing between control flanges. There is a little bit of the insert sticking out on the inside. It will have three places it has been crimped. Use a punch to straighten these out. Now use the punch again to get the bushing inserts started moving out. Then after you have the inside ends flush, use the chisel on the sleeve in between the control arm flanges. It will take a lot of persuading, but believe me it will come out. When one bushing is out, do the same to the other one. On mine when I had one out and started removing the other one it came out with the cross shaft still attached. No problem, just clamp it in the vise and cut or chisel it off. Use this same technique to both lower control arms.


Control Arm Bushing Installation:

My urethane bushings consisted of three pieces. The outer metal insert, bushing, and metal sleeve. You need to remove the bushings from the inserts to install them. You also need a piece of pipe to use as a receiver to aid in the installation. For the upper control arm, start the bushing insert in the control arm. Then while holding the pipe in place on the inside of the control arm, clamp it in the vise and start tightening. It should slide right in. Keep going until the insert is all the way in. Do this for both inserts. Slide the metal sleeve into the bushing and then the bushing into one insert (using some of the supplied grease), and then install the cross shaft. The cross shaft needs to be installed with the side away from the ball joint having the curved in areas where it bolts up to the frame. If you notice the shims have a square shim which goes on last and it is curved on the outside. Anyway, after you install the cross shaft in one bushing, put the other metal sleeve into the other bushing and slide this bushing in the insert and cross shaft on the other end. If you are using polyurethane bushings, be sure you use some of the supplied silicone grease. Put some of the grease on the inside bushing sleeve when you press them into the bushings and the bushing it's self when you install the bushing into the sleeve. Clamp the upper control arm in the vise by the cross shaft. Slide one washer onto each end and start a lock nut. Torque each nut to 115 ft.lbs. Do this for both upper control arms.

The lower control arm bushings are installed a little different. You need to place a socket in between the flanges so you don't bend them together when you press in the bushings. Make sure it is a snug fit so it doesn't fall out. Then it is sort of the same process as the upper control arms. Start an insert and place the piece of pipe on the receiving end and clamp it in the vise. Tighten it until the insert is all the way in. Do this on both bushings inserts. Use the punch to make three crimps on the inside end of each bushing insert similar to the way they were before. Slide a sleeve into a bushing and then into the insert, again using some of the silicone grease. Install the cross shaft and align the marks you made earlier. Now slide a sleeve into the other bushing and into the insert, then onto the cross shaft. Again, put on the washers and torque each nut to 115 ft.lbs.


Hope this helps.

[rich62step]

Thank you very much, this will save me alot of time and parts being able to do it right the first time. This is a great recource to have and get info from people like your self that have done this work. Hopefully I can help you out in the future. Thanks Again!! Rich:p

[swervin ervin]

No problem at all. This board is all about us helping each other. We all come here for the friendship and comrodere. I have been helped many times and have gotten many ideas from the folks who have tried what I'm thinking about doing. No better advice in the world than to get it from someone who has done it before. I figure if I can give a little something to people who need help, it makes me a better person for doing it.

I had to learn everything I know by myself. I didn't have a resourse like this when I was learning. It sucks not having anyone to help or teach you things. Experience is the best teacher, although it get costly at times.

You are very welcome. Let me know how it turns out for you.

Mike

[BoeJaker1976]

Wow. Thanx for taking the time to write the article! it helped me a ton today!

[danielwetpaint]

One more thing!!! I've been beatin' and banging on old cars since 1978. When removing old bushings at home, in the driveway, etc. All the old farts I knew would as a last resort use Oxy-Acetylene heat to get 'em out.That was dangerous,,poisonous fumes, fire, molten rubber spatter. I found a better way to remove the old bushings without destroying the metal shells,or inside sleeve. That is to drill out most the rubber with a hand held drill. Just drill repeatedly in a circle and when most all the rubber is removed (it reduces the outward pressure) it then *pops* out with a few taps of a Ford tool (hammer).This has worked well on those that you can get too.

[c10crazy]

This should be placed in the FAQ if it is not already. Excellent post Mike!

[BoeJaker1976]

I did the passenger side today. and heres something that should be added to your artilce. after using the punch on the bushing crimps. Use a 3 draw puller to remove the bushing!!!! saves a TON of time! pneumatic tools are fun, but for me, time is of ...well you get the idea