F/S Perches for 4"shackle flip

[drink2mny]

I have cleaned out my PM box so I can't remember who need these..
So I am putting these up for sale.
I haven't weighed them yet, but they are heavy so shipping might cost ya some..

But these are exactly what you need to do a 4" shackle flip on 67- on up Chevy trucks..

Any questions as to placement and I can email or post a picture of them on my blazer..

Asking 45.00 Plus S&H

[714x4lover]

if i added those to my truck i could take out the 4" blocks, please add pic thanks

[Destructo]

What did they come off of? 2wd truck?

[drink2mny]

Originally posted by 714x4lover
if i added those to my truck i could take out the 4" blocks, please add pic thanks

Yes you can replace your 4" lift blocks with these..
It will also set your pinion angle much better.

You can see in the 1st pic above you would need to drillout the rest of the rivets. My buddy helping me take them off didn't realize he didn't need to cut those bottom rivets..You can grade 8 bolt them or weld it up..

Hey destructo I parted 3 trucks in the past week.. I want to say these came off a 4wd..I think it was a '77..

Here is a picture of them on my blazer

[Blue_71]

so all you do, is cut off your back shackle, bolt these on, and bolt your spring back on? nothing at all to the front shackle?

[drink2mny]

Thats exactly it.
You can see in my picture. All I did was cut off the old rear perch(driled the rivets out) and positioned the new perches with the spring shackle flipped up..
I drilled new holes on the upper part for 4 grade 8 bolts and welded along the sides and inside for added safety..

It was a perfect 4 " lift and put my pinion almost perfect..

I have towed and mud raced, hill climbed and jumped my blazer with no problems at all.

I have also put a set on a 72 long bed..
The perch goes just about where you stock one was..

Hope this helps

[Blue_71]

does it change your wheelbase any? i remember when Yukon Jack had his bed on still the wheel was further forward

[72bigblock4wd]

If they will fit my '72 K10 I will take them. I sent you a PM. Thanks!

[stomper72]

It'll move your axle about 1/2 inch forward. If you have big tires it won't look right. The axle stock isn't exactly in the center of the wheel well. So that's why with big tires it won't look right.

[smokekiki]

Use zero-rates from ord if you want to move the axle backwards.Will add 1"to the lift.With the flipped shackles,when compressed,the axle will swing to the rear.

[drink2mny]

Originally posted by smokekiki
With the flipped shackles,when compressed,the axle will swing to the rear.

And basically "recenter" your rear axle.
So only really at a sitting stance will it affect wheel base

[smokekiki]

Thats what I was getting at.If it run on the street,center the axle.If wheeled I wouldn't move the axle after the flip.You might jamb the tire into the rear q panel when compressed.

[drink2mny]

Oh ok.

I guess I just never had any issues with this setup. I run 36" 12.50 tsl sx swampers for daily driving and some offroad. But Usualy run 38 12.50 tsl swampers for mud and hardcore stuff..
I have never stuffed my tires to either the front or rear of the back fenders..

[drink2mny]

another

[drink2mny]

last one

[drink2mny]

Yeah I don't recall seeing ORD say anything about putting those zero rates on after they installed there High doller shackles..

I could see where it might move it back and hit if you had the zero deal..

[smokekiki]

The zero rates give you the option of moving the axle to the rear,the front or centered.Drink2mny,I was agreeing with You.

[69k5]

coukld you make it a 5" if youy mounted it down one inch further?

[drink2mny]

you probably could have 5", then again is the issue of the pinion angle and wheelbase being shortened.
The pinion angle could be address with angle shims and just guessing on this one but wheelbase adjusted with zero rate leaf..

I know the ORD kits don't go over 4" so there must be a good reason why..

Here is what is on ORD shckle site

You may wonder why we don't have a Shackle Flip kit for more than 4" of lift. The reason is that to gain more lift, the end of the spring has to drop down twice the desired lift amount. In other words to gain 1 extra inch, we would have to drop the rear of the spring a full 2 inches. This drop at the tail of the spring can become a ground clearance problem and promotes roll-oversteer which is a handling problem in which the rear of the truck startsto feel "loose" under hard cornering with body roll. We've chosen the 4" lift height as the limit for these reasons.

[stomper72]

I just called ORD and they told me that it would move it forward. To correct that problem you would have to buy one of there Zero Rate kits.