4 inch lift questions

[thorne101]

im looking at a 4in lift with springs, blocks and shocks, what all do i have to change or lengthen to do this, will i have to do anything with the drive shaft of the steering thanks for the help

[Wreckless_71]

Drop link is recommended... also i would recommend longer front brake lines. I have the stock ones on my project right now and I think I will end up switching to longer ones... besides that I think that's it.

[Yukon Jack]

What year vehicle are you asking about. You will find there are no definites.

With a 4 inch lift your driveshafts should be fine, but occasionally there is an issue.

I did have an issue with the initial 4" lift I did on my 69 K20 - the front driveshaft was too short and I ended up having to add a Double Cardon Joint also.

Depending on the year of vehicle usually a raised steering arm is recommended to get your steering back to near stock. If you dealing with a 69 or older, you will need an adjustable drop drag link as a raised steering arm isn't available for the axle used in a 69 or older truck.

[Mudder]

Most kits give you a bracket for lowering your brake lines. New stainless are pretty nice to have.

[special-K]

Most lift kits include the steering arm you`d need and the steering absolutely needs addressed.I recommend a steering armover a drag link.The brake lines are a definate thing to address,too,but the relocation brackets that Mudder is talking about do the trick.I`ve never had to lengthen a ront driveshaft for 4".I suggest completing the lit and inspecting.When truckis sitting level the spline should have anout equal travel in and out.Take notice/mark the yoke/spline relation before and compare to after.

[duallyjams]

I would include a steering stabilizer.

[thorne101]

it is a 72 thanks for all the good info im still looking into this to decide if this is the way i want to go yet or not thanks tony

[jkade]

Just get a steering arm and that is all you will need. I ran a 4" lift with just the arm for 4 years with no problems. Now if you are going to be flexing the suspension a lot I would do the front brake lines.

[Dean]

I've got the brake hose part numbers if you are doing a K20.

[Mike C]

Skip the middle step and go ahead and get springs. The blocks stink. I bent both perches on my axle housing and had all sorts of wheel hop issues. Save a little more now, and only have to do job once.

[shakedown96]

I am doing the same thing with my 71 K10 I was looking at these:

http://www.ntwonline.com/67-72_GM_Su...cials_C782.cfm

using the top one and not using the blocks but using this:

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

it is the best in my opinon if your going to use the truck.

[xbanone]

Originally Posted by shakedown96

I am doing the same thing with my 71 K10 I was looking at these:

http://www.ntwonline.com/67-72_GM_Su...cials_C782.cfm

I always wonder who manufactures those NTW "suspension specials", anyone know?

[72chevyk10]

my '72 didnt need the longer brake lines but probly would under heavy articulation(sp?)

[NYC-10]

I just installed a 4" BDS lift kit,all spring.I got a new steering arm and ordered ss brake lines that are 4" longer.looks like the e-brake cables are a little tight,I may remove them

[xbanone]

Originally Posted by NYC-10

I just installed a 4" BDS lift kit,all spring.I got a new steering arm and ordered ss brake lines that are 4" longer.looks like the e-brake cables are a little tight,I may remove them

How do you like the ride of the BDS set up? I hear rear springs ride rougher than blocks.

[NYC-10]

Originally Posted by xbanone

How do you like the ride of the BDS set up? I hear rear springs ride rougher than blocks.

Didn't drive it yet but I will let you know

[76PasoGMC]

Not to hijack this thread but are real life opinions on the different brands of lift. I am more concered with ride. Which 4" all spring kit rides the best?

[special-K]

Originally Posted by xbanone

How do you like the ride of the BDS set up? I hear rear springs ride rougher than blocks.

Blocks don`t change the ride.You just have the same springs with a space between them and the axle.

[Joey~AP]

I did a junkyard lift on my son's that came out to about 4"....maybe more.

First.....I went to the junkyard and got some 52" springs off the back of an 80's Chevy truck. I also got the front hangers for the rear springs.





Cost was about $50.

This is the rear suspension that I started with.

[Joey~AP]

I removed the rear hanger and drilled the holes out to 7/16". I then took the hangers that I got from the junkyard and mounted them.

I used grade 8 7/16" hardware to replace the rivets.

Kind of makes a shackle flip.





The above is not the shackle angle that I left it at.

I wanted longer shackles....which they dont make for Chevy's cause of the reverse shackles, so I found a set of lowering shackles that worked just fine!





I did have to get new brakelines.

[Joey~AP]

For the front I used the 52" leafs from the rar of the junkyard Chevy.

THis gets a little tricky, because you have to move the front hangers, move the rear hangers and locate or build some 7-1/4" shackles.

Old springs compared to new springs....



Original location...



New location...




You can see the old hole location of where the rear spring hanger used to be. I think I moved it forward a little more than an inch.

[Joey~AP]

Then I had to make some shackles...

[Russell]

Well done on the lift! That truck will ride smoother and articulate better than any lift spring possibly could. And it is done safely, which is key!

[Joey~AP]

I cleaned the springs up and poainted them. Also cut the overloads.



Front required longer brake lines, too.





Put in a Pro Comp 4" steerin hootus to correct the tie rod angle.



Almost finished product.

[Jtrux]

I think you should do a more in depth build thread on that, I bet you'll have a lot of people trying to look fo this for possible future builds.